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It's safe to say I wasn't quite prepared for the adventurous sport climbing of the Prow's first pitch. Pretty heady for the first pitch of the morning, and the book just passes it off like it's another 5.9+.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-10-03 | Last Modified: 2008-02-09 Views: 1643 | Comment: 1
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For all the cracked rock in this canyon you just don't find too many pitches like this. The 6th pitch of Timebinder is certainly not 10d. It's just good clean fun. And Jordan got the lead.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-10-03 | Last Modified: 2008-02-09 Views: 1403 | Comments: 0
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That's my belayer down there, 40 ft below my left foot. Despite how junky it looks, the standard finish to the standard route is anything but standard.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-10-03 | Last Modified: 2008-02-10 Views: 1544 | Comment: 1
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Ahh, and that was my first 10 trad lead. What a worthy pitch to have the honor. Of course I was feeling rad; my orange shorts even matched the rock.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-10-03 Views: 3025 | Comments: 0
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After hiking 2 hours to get to Afterburner, you definitely get your money's worth in three perfect pitches. There is a short roof, an offwidth chimney, 80' of splitter fists, and this perfectly funky first pitch of 10a.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-10-03 | Last Modified: 2008-02-09 Views: 1611 | Comments: 0
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I don't know if 'Don't put your hand in it' is actually the route we're on here, but it sounds right. All I know is that I love gettin my hands all over this perfectly sculpted- if sharp- rattler limestone. We found some good warm-up 5.8s up around this area.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-10-03 Views: 1786 | Comments: 0
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Here's a highball problem worthy of the Montana backwoods. A perfect line of hollow flakes and vegetated pockets leads up the right side of this soaring arete. We were disappointed to find a rusty set of rappel chains on top until we realized it was the only way to get down. The height and dirty holds are intimidating but it can't be harder than VO+.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-09-06 Views: 2086 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 2
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felt bad for daring jordan to jump this; the rocks looked closer from my angle. eh, he made it!
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-03 Views: 893 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 2
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Revenue is an incredible place. Was pleasantly surprised this spring (4-22-06) to find the place picked up a bit, the ATV scars filling in with grass sprouts, and not half as many beer cans as usual. We bounced around, trying new trad lines, and took a classic little warm-up on the Green Arete.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2006-05-25 Views: 1901 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 5
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a vision like this before I drift off makes for one peaceful night of sleep. ahhh...
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-11 Views: 1689 | Comments: 2
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Starting up the great 2nd pitch of Lonely Vigil.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2007-04-05 Views: 1541 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 3
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we sure cut our teeth on this beast-- rope stuck 3x, five rappels in the dark with one headlamp between us, back to missoula by 5am. everything as precarious and spooky as it looks here. but we know enough now to blame ourselves.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-11 Views: 2347 | Comment: 1
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not a great photo, but illustrates my beta on where to put your belay on the crux runout pitch of the free lament (5.9+R). after the crack disappears, boulder through the unprotected overhangs and under the main roof is a very manageable anchor; I used the piton, a nut, and slung a horn. unless someone retro-bolted an anchor, as I heard rumor of--
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-03 Views: 2840 | Comments: 0
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ah, I just felt good about my home state after this day. got over 10 excellent (though grainy) pitches running up and down this thing, and some good colors too.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-05 Views: 1425 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 3
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three guys and two tangled ropes in a cold windy offwidth. I left it up to these two, and got out my camera, knowing I'd appreciate the view more when I got home.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-05 Views: 1433 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 4
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if it's going to be a long day. oh, and bring t.p.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-02-05 Views: 1285 | Comment: 1
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since ancient art had a waiting line five parties thick, we racked up some novelty climbs and remembered acid.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-05-26 Views: 1621 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 2
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this is looking down from the top of the cave... you can make out a gallon jug on the ground. it seemed a little dark when I led this thing, but luckily in i-creek the holds are all the same, and you can guess cam sizes quick by the feel of your jam.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-05-26 Views: 1527 | Votes: 3 | Comments: 0
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our poorly conceived approach to six-shooter came with an R rating.
Submitted by: new_direct on 2008-05-26 Views: 1192 | Comments: 0
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