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Helicopter In Flight

Average Rating = 2.83/5 Helicopter In Flight



This is photo #11 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

After knocking off the two scariest pitches, a little levity was in order. The next morning I made a little helicopter from part of a Wall Flower bag, and gave it a test flight. But my design needed a bit of improvement.

[Pete's, like, a Chemical Engineer, eh? He must've been sick the day they taught aerodynamic stability. - Tom]

Tom achieved an aerodynamic solution by putting a bit of weight on the axis of the rotor in the form of a small rock and some red duct tape, and let it fly!

At this point on the wall, I thought the worst was over. Little did I know what lay in store.....

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! [DDEL]

Anyway, we've finally drunk enough coffee, so click here to join me on the sharp end.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 1537 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 7
Tom Belays at 4 – Scorched Earth

Average Rating = 3.40/5 Tom Belays at 4 – Scorched Earth



This is photo #12 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

I'll tell ya, mate - I was pretty darn relieved to make it to here safely! The belay at the top of 3 was two or three manky quarter-inchers, which I had to equalize to the first three pieces in the fourth pitch! Sheesh.

The crux aid is on the fourth pitch and clocks in at a solid A4+ - including a twelve-foot cheat stick move where I had to hook and then trust a crumbling edge above already-bad gear. Yikes! Higher up are tiny heads and more lousy hooks. Blow it here, and you're in for a long ride, mate!

Scorched Earth, along with Disorderly Conduct, are two El Cap routes which require such a device. Randy Leavitt called his the Lovetron, while Warren Hollinger had a more practical use for his - it was his Tequila Straw.

Please click here to see Tom's four-part collage of me leading the roof pitch, whence this picture was taken.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 1278 | Votes: 5 | Comments: 0
Pete Leading P5 Scorched Earth

Average Rating = 4.38/5 Pete Leading P5 Scorched Earth



This is photo #14 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

Now is this a bitchin' shot, or what? One of the benefits of RC.com is the people you meet, and the photos that end up in your inbox! As you read above, I gave Heinz [then lurker, now heinz57] a mini-tutorial at the base. It turns out his friend William Zittrich was out in the Meadows with his 1000mm lens.

You can see I'm just turning the upper roof, while Tom belays me from my Crab-O-Ledge. That obvious notch in the roof to the right is the Batcave on Aurora.

You can now click here for a close-up photo of Tom belaying me.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 1468 | Votes: 45 | Comments: 14
Tom Reclining at the Fourth Belay – Scorched Earth

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Tom Reclining at the Fourth Belay – Scorched Earth



This is photo #15 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

This photo is absolutely remarkable, in that it was taken from El Cap Meadows! You know William had to be so far away because of the angle of the shot.

You can see the cordalettes equalizing all the cams I stuffed into the crack above us [no bolts!], the green and purple rope bags, the white handkerchief protecting the back of Tom's neck from the sun, the Blue Whale, the fruit bucket. Hell, you can even see the Hoser Flag on Wee-Wee's hat!

Please click here for another great shot by William.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 2230 | Votes: 12 | Comments: 9
Pete Leading P5 – Scorched Earth

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Pete Leading P5 – Scorched Earth



This is photo #16 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

Ha! I actually remember this move! I had to hook that little edge I'm leaning towards, and then make this wicked topstep to stuff a cam into the roof! Long reach, you say? No problem with my Russian Aiders!

Cool shadow, cool body position. Please click here to check out the view from Tom's ledge.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 1595 | Votes: 15 | Comments: 6
Woo-hoo!  BOOTY!

Average Rating = 3.25/5 Woo-hoo! BOOTY!



This is photo #18 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

I couldn't believe my eyes when I arrived here at Cape Wild Bivi, the top of 5 on Scorched Earth. Over to my right, the pitch on Aurora was festooned with gear! [Great word, that...] Evidently it had been left behind by a retreating party which had to down-aid the pitch. This could prove to be one of the most booty-licious coups of all time! If only I could get there......

[Pete's eyes aren't as good as mine, especially without my 300mm lens. All he could see was a bunch of Booty. When I came up and used my camera as a telescope, he couldn't believe it as I called out what I saw: two Yellow Aliens, two Purple #4 Camalots, a few smaller cams, some stoppers, biners, lockers, slings and even a pair of aiders. Basically, it was a complete trad rack! - Tom]

But with all that booty just waiting to be plundered - ARRRR, may-tee! - I knew that I just had to find a way!

Anyway, enough with the drooling - it's time to get to work and haul those pigs!

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 2775 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 6
Tom Approaches 5 – Cape Wild Bivi

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Tom Approaches 5 – Cape Wild Bivi



This is photo #20 in a series of 32. You can click here to return to Photo #1.

Ha! I must have been scared. Check out the doubled Scream-Aids above the Screamer near the top. A superb photo of our sub-loads on their multi-coloured Catch Lines, and hanging beneath everything else, our fragrant Wall Flower.

After Tom finished cleaning P4, I fixed half of P5 and equalized a bunch of rivets, then rapped off and returned to Cape Wild Bivi. Our accommodations for the night consisted of nothing more than four manky quarter-inchers in a horizontal array [the topo showed five - sheesh] - so it felt good to have the belay backed up to the rivets above.

The next morning, I tried some crazy Rubber Band Man pendulums across and towards Aurora in an effort to score the booty. With each subsequent swing, Tom would whip me farther across the wall in giant forty-foot arcs over five-hundred feet off the deck! After I caromed and bounced off porta-ledges, pigs, and sub-loads, got tangled in the Wall Flower, and spun round like a top until I felt sick, I finally succumbed to the futility of my actions, and escaped the vertiginous exposure to collapse exhausted in my ledge.

[But not before wearing a core shot into the sheath of my 3-month old 11mm x 60m Mammut Flex lead rope. - Tom]

Nothing to do but climb the A4 expanding Poison Pill, and try to swing over from higher.

Now, you may be wondering what an expanding flake actually looks like. Believe me, it looks better once you're past it then when you're actually climbing it.

You can click here to see it from the friendly side.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-27
Views: 2288 | Votes: 10 | Comment: 1
Caving in Belize - December 1979

Average Rating = 3.11/5 Caving in Belize - December 1979

Here's a photo the girls are going to love!

Here we have Broomhandle Zabrok standing next to a rimstone formation in Actun Lubul Ha, a cave we explored in the Caves Branch polje of Belize in December, 1979.

C'mon, girls! Tell Dr. Piton what you think of him!

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-24
Views: 1181 | Votes: 9 | Comments: 10
Round Table Photo which appeared in Gripped Magazine

Average Rating = 4.12/5 Round Table Photo which appeared in Gripped Magazine

Uh, yeah - the interviewer definitely "gets me," eh?

You can click here for the full size photo, which was taken by Tom Kasper [apollodorus] during our ascent of Excalibur.

And you can click here to read the Feature Article in Gripped Magazine.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-22
Views: 2079 | Votes: 9 | Comments: 3
Solo Aid Climbing Techniques - Rope Bag Management

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Solo Aid Climbing Techniques - Rope Bag Management

In my Dr. Piton Signature Post entitled, Help Dr. Piton - It's Eating Me Alive! I write about rope bag management.

This surprisingly simple trick will save you plenty of time when you are restuffing your lead rope bag after cleaning the pitch.

After cleaning the pitch, you will arrive at the top station where you have left your lead rope bag, which is attached to your Solo Tag Rack. You have been tying backup knots in your lead rope every twenty to thirty feet as you have been cleaning. So you arrive at the top of the pitch with big loops of rope dangling from you. You will have to stuff an amount of rope into the bag equal to or greater than the length of the pitch you just cleaned.

As you are untying your backup knots, and taking them off the designated wide gate autolocker you use for this purpose, pass the rope through a crab above the rope bag for quick and easy stuffing!

This system is not confined to solo climbing! It also works when stuffing any rope bag, especially haul line bags which you will stuff again and again and again.

If you use this simple Dr. Piton Big Wall Tip, you will be amazed at how much time you will save over the course of a wall! Stuffing rope in bags is not as easy as you might think - it can actually drive you crazy, especially in the 50 mph convective winds that you routinely find near the summit of El Cap on sunny days.

You can click here to read further Dr. Piton tips on reducing your Clusterf*ck, which includes more tips on managing your ropes.

Photo by Richard Heinrich

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-15
Views: 4583 | Votes: 11 | Comment: 1
My Parents are ETS!

Average Rating = 0.00/5 My Parents are ETS!

If you are familiar with Dr. Piton parlance, you will know that there is no better compliment.

My folks "get me," like nobody else!

[Good thing]

You would never guess my mom as 83 and my dad as 77. They are usually reckoned to be in their 60's.

When I was sixteen, I didn't think my dad knew much at all. [I am surprised at how much he has since learned]

My mom remains far and away the smartest person I have ever met.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-14
Views: 463 | Comments: 0
<font color=red>In Memory of Andria Ligas</font>

Average Rating = 4.27/5 In Memory of Andria Ligas

This is my friend, Andria Ligas [cragchica] the day we climbed together on Rappel Rock of Mount Lemmon, the day she led her first multi-pitch trad route with her Wall Doctor not in the lead, but rather as her second.

Her heart is even more beautiful than her smile.

In this photo she is wearing her beloved outfit, her "Andria Suit" as I called it. Like my crab, this outfit was Andria's trademark.

This photo appears in the accident report in the Arizona Daily Star.

Another photo of her is here.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-11
Views: 1472 | Votes: 38 | Comments: 16
In Memory of Andria Ligas

Average Rating = 4.39/5 In Memory of Andria Ligas

This is one of my favourite photos of the "Tucson Hotties", Andria at top, Hillary beneath.

We hurriedly captured this image as the sun was setting while climbing at Gates Pass, a bouldering area just west of Tucson, Arizona.

Andria was killed while riding her bike on December 22, 2002. I've shared a few photos and stories of Andria here and here and here.

I love this photo because the girls are so recognizable, and because of the contrasts in their physiques. Andria - powerful and athletic; Hillary - slender and lithe.

Hillary and Andria were best of friends, one ideally complementing the other.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-11
Views: 1360 | Votes: 47 | Comments: 8
Andria and Hillary at La Salsa

Average Rating = 2.40/5 Andria and Hillary at La Salsa


Iguana voice:

Heeelary and Andreeea and I used to go to the La Salsa restaurant in Tucson and dreenk Pa-cee-fee-coe beer.

Eet ees very yummeee....

Bob and Doug McKenzie voice:

And like, they were playing like the theme from the Great White North on their beer bottles, eh?

Even though it's not like Molson Canadian, eh?

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-11
Views: 443 | Votes: 6 | Comments: 0
S. R. T. E. Rescuemate

Average Rating = 0.00/5 S. R. T. E. Rescuemate

Photo by Phil Box.

This is a compound pulley very similar in design to the Kong Block Roll.

While it certainly is a lot beefier than the traditional Wall Hauler, I do see one problem vis a vis the Block Roll - it would appear that there is no slot in the front plate, meaning you have to take it off the carabiner to change ropes.

I'd like to know what the pulley diameter is, though.

To my eye, it looks a bit smaller than the Block Roll, which based on these observations [which may be incorrect] I believe I would still recommend over this device.

Though I'd take this thing over a Traxion or a Wall Hauler in a heartbeat!
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-10
Views: 673 | Comments: 0
In Memory of Andria Ligas

Average Rating = 3.12/5 In Memory of Andria Ligas

Behold the Tucson Hotties, Andria and Hillary, best of friends.

I took this photo at Gates Pass one day when we were bouldering.

Well, let me rephrase....

They climbed - I just took the photos!

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-09
Views: 454 | Votes: 8 | Comments: 0
In Memory of Andria Ligas

Average Rating = 3.33/5 In Memory of Andria Ligas

The Tucson Hotties, Andria and Hillary, best of friends.

What a couple o' little posers, eh? Ya just gotta love it!

Hillary's a wannabe Hoser, and she's like wearing her I Am Canadian skanky top, eh? What a beauty day that was.

{sigh}
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2003-01-09
Views: 679 | Votes: 10 | Comment: 1
In Memory of Andria Ligas

Average Rating = 5.00/5 In Memory of Andria Ligas

Here we have Andria heading out for another great day on the rock.

I don't know what adventure we're going to share together, just that I know we're going to have fun!

It is the joy that Andria found in her climbing that I remember most fondly.

You can click here to celebrate the life of Andria Ligas.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-27
Views: 746 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 3
Andria After Another Great Day!

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Andria After Another Great Day!

This is vintage Andria - regaling us with tales of another day of conflict.

You can even see the battle wounds on her legs!

I love this photo because she is dressed in her beloved "Andria Suit".

You can click here to celebrate the life of Andria Ligas.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-27
Views: 724 | Vote: 1 | Comment: 1
<font color=red>In Memory of Andria Ligas</font>

Average Rating = 4.06/5 In Memory of Andria Ligas

This is Andria at her best - in the crags ready to push her limits, ready to get scared, but unwilling to quit. This was the day she led her first multi-pitch trad climb. Just look at the joy in her face!

I miss my friend so very very much. Please click here to celebrate the life of Andria. Thank you.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-24
Views: 1471 | Votes: 21 | Comments: 14
Chongo on his bike in Camp 4

Average Rating = 2.33/5 Chongo on his bike in Camp 4

I found this photo kicking around somewhere - I don't even remember if I took it or not!

Vintage Chongo.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-23
Views: 741 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 0
They don't call me

Average Rating = 3.33/5 They don't call me "Pass the Pitons Pete" for nothin'!

MMMMMMM - MM!

Piton Beer!

Brewed in Castries, St. Lucia, W.I.

Like Victor Kiam, I liked the beer so much, I bought the company!

I.P.O. coming out spring 2003. Serious inquiries only, please.

[Photo taken on a recent business trip to Bridgetown, Barbados where I got the new labels printed.]
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-12-21
Views: 1591 | Votes: 7 | Comments: 11
The Far End Hauler

Average Rating = 4.00/5 The Far End Hauler

Here you can see a photo of the FAR END HAULER set up prior to my solo of Lunar Eclipse.

Please click to link above to understand what this is and how it works. Also note that in the link above, the post I wrote appears in freeclmr's name because I used his laptop and typed it on the way to Yosemite!

The Far End Hauler should be set up ahead of time and is imperative when you are either soloing, or you must make really horrible hauls where your rope would get trashed were it moving.

As you will read in the link above, the Far End Hauler allows you to haul the pig FROM the pig, and save rope abrasion since the haul line does not move.

Starting at the top, you see the inverted compound pulley, which in this case is the purple Wall Hauler. You could use an inverted Grigri or even a Garta knot, though a compound pulley like a Petzl Traxion is best since it won't slip, and does not create friction like the other setups.

Beneath the Wall Hauler is the Inverted Compound Pulley Designated Locker, which is turned edge-on with the locking gate facing towards the camera.

There are two things connected into the upper locker. The first is the Haul Line Backup Locker into which you can see an alpine butterfly knot has been tied leaving the appropriate amount of slack.

Also connected into this upper locker is the top of the gold-coloured swivel which is highly recommended if not darn near fundamental when using the Far End Hauler.

Note that the backup knot must be tied ABOVE the swivel, so it doesn't wrap around the pig as the pig rolls across the face. Duh.

Beneath the swivel you see the Master Suspension Point Locker. I use this because I am hauling two pigs. You must never put your pigs one above the other - rig two of them side by side as shown.

Beneath the Master Suspension Point you see two standard shoulder-length slings, one of which is red, the other purple, attaching the Suspension Point of each pig to the Master. By quadrupling the slings as shown, you will have them the right length. They need to be shorter than you might think.


The gates of each Suspension Point Locker need to face outwards as shown.

On top of the Suspension Point Locker of each pig, you will see starting on the inside, a designated Docking Tether Attachment Locker, which can either be a regular locker, or in this case, a Mexican locker [standard locker whose gate has been taped shut]. You can see the yellow duct tape securing each Mexican Locker.

The reason you use these extra carabiners, rather than just putting the Docking Tether straight onto the Suspension Point Locker of each pig is to prevent abrasion on the Docking Tether. It also gives you an extra degree of freedom.

Attached to each of the Docking Tether Attachment Lockers by way of a figure 8 on a bight are the Docking Tethers, which I have made from pieces of 7mm cord about five metres long. The left docking tether hangs straight down between the bags and is yellowy-brown in colour. The right docking tether is red and hangs down the middle of the right bag just left of centre.

Easier to see on the right bag and next to the Docking Tether Attachment Locker, but still present on the left, is the Catch Lines Locker. You can click here to read about Catch Lines, and how they make life so much easier by making space in your pig!

Moving from the left side and starting from Wee-Wee the Big Wall Crab and working rightwards, you can see the five Catch Lines I have set up - turquoise, purple, black/yellow, [left docking tether, right docking tether] red and green/yellow.

Finally, on the outside of each Suspension Point are the Haul Bag Strap Load Release Knot Cords, essentially a mini-docking tether on the shortened strap of each haul bag, so you don't have to fight to unclip a crab each time you want to open the pig.

If you're soloing, don't leave the ground without setting up this Far End Hauling System Note that everything remains the same, even if hauling only one bag.

The Far End Hauler is is also of benefit when you climb with a partner if you are Leading In Blocks. This is because you may be cleaning the pitch and hauling by yourself if your leader has already taken off on the next pitch. If the bag gets stuck, you will need to go down and free it.

Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-11-03
Views: 5831 | Votes: 8 | Comments: 4
Equalized Belay Anchors - #4 Camalot and #3 Big Wall Crab

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Equalized Belay Anchors - #4 Camalot and #3 Big Wall Crab

Here we see a properly equalized big wall anchor system consisting of a #4 Camalot and a #3 Big Wall Crab.

The two pieces are equalized with a "sliding X" sling and are further equalized with three bolts [not shown] via cordalette.

The Power Point is at the base of the cordalette, and should be the largest locker you own.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-10-30
Views: 2013 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 5
Dr. Piton's Block and Tackle

Average Rating = 3.10/5 Dr. Piton's Block and Tackle

Photo #1 of 3

In a recent Ask Dr. Piton post, a question was posed about using a come-along for big wall hauling.

Here Dr. Piton holds the first requisite item to build the hauling system - the come-along hook.

Note: This hook should be racked on the front subrack of your Big Wall Rack. If you have more than one, then you should add a racking label so that you do not accidentally put both of your come-along hooks onto the same carabiner.

Please click here to return to the post and continue the presentation.
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2002-10-28
Views: 1421 | Votes: 10 | Comments: 5
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