Photos by timpanogos

Just like the #2 head, dead center behind the wire has hardly deformed and definatly not flowed into the rock

Very desperate vertical crack - could not get both heads to set - this seemed like the most probable spot I thought it would do better than it did - could not get full body weight on it

Very desperate vertical crack - could not get both heads to set - this seemed like the most probable spot I thought it would do better than it did - could not get full body weight on it

Pictures of the cam that failed - couple of things to note: I had the spring inside - I will not do this again, always place spring outside. You can see there was not much cam contact on this guy - it appears to have twisted out on me. bad placement - that I did not get away with

Pictures of the cam that failed - couple of things to note: I had the spring inside - I will not do this again, always place spring outside. You can see there was not much cam contact on this guy - it appears to have twisted out on me. bad placement - that I did not get away with

Retreating - heading home to think about this for awhile - biggest aid fall for me to date. Happens fast!

Time to retreat and think about this one - biggest aid fall (or any fall) I've taken yet. Look at the green tree at 11 o'clock from the no trespassing sign - the flat part of the top of this tree - underlines the area I have been climbing in the back ground. The young lady that took picture for me, snapped the shot right as I turned my arm to see best photo angle - It's road rashed from wrist to elbow - from the penji tumble

Just did not feel good about things - must have been the 40' penji f2 that was to follow?

Damn it happened fast. Getting into the crack is scary - on ramp, already 12' from anchor - very thin getting started - first piece was the smallest splitter two cam - it seemed solid - but was not the best placement, as I was to find out! got on 3rd steps and was working on setting a #5 brassy - was getting ready to give the brassy a bounch test, and was air bound - bounch test failed!

Yep, total deployment - I could not get that knot out.

The old bashie took one small tap on the top with a punch, and it fell out! Scrubbed it up with a wire brush and this is what it looked like.

Pounded it in with the small end of hammer - made some X's with a blunt chisel - then a couple down the center - straight it blunt chisel blows to sink it solid into that narrow channel down the center of the scar.

First is series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Second in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Third in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Fourth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Fiveth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Sixth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Seventh in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Eigth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct - I was experimenting on TR. I climbed the whole crack with cam hooks - no other pro was used.

Ninth in series of cam hook moves up Peeler Direct Final move, pulling from vertical onto the ramp

My first succesful big wall - partnered with Pete Zabrok. Ready for another day - kind of.

Picture of Chad Adams photo by Pete Zabrok

The Peeler Direct Crack Entry Mashy has it's wire broken off About 12" above this is a #2 copperhead that can be reached from the last bolt with a 4' cheater stick.

photo by Chad

This is an early morning shot of the South East face of the Black Peeler Buttress. My project area in preparation for El-Cap this May

photo by Chad

This is the Peeler Direct Crack a few moves above the entry into the crack. Its about a 40' crack Nice eh?

Photo by Chad