Photos by xclimber

Who can ID this roof problem? It spit out climbers regularly until TNT Toula sent it...

Who can ID this roof problem? It spit out climbers regularly until TNT Toula sent it...

This puppy likes to play rough. You can walk it faster, but then you'll have a much longer approach. Put it in 4-low and crawl. SUV MIA...

Jerry Cagle narrowly escapes the fashion police...

A nice, casual pitch, bolt protected, with some chicken heads to sling, just for the hell-of-it...

Jerry Cagle leading, Geir Hundal on belay. Note:Take some small to medium sized pro to set in the crack between the second and third bolts on this pitch. I didn't, and it's a bit runout there...

Jerry Cagle Leading Critters 5.9+ Red Rock Point, Arkansas. Circa 1987

This is a unique two-pitch climb. The most interesting moves are under the roof. They aren't "jams" per se; You can easily bury your forearms up to the elbows and use a sort of opposition between them and your feet. The first time I led this my arms got covered with silverfish. The little puppies were literally raining down out of the crack! That was mildly distracting... The crux is the move out from under the roof onto the belay stance on the upper wall. The stance at the end of the first pitch is reasonably comfortable, secure and spectacular: nothing but air below and sky and rock above. You have a nice view of the valley stretching out into the distance. The second pitch is a cruise, but quite fun at 5.5. A route well worth doing! According to the old handwritten guidebook "Indecent Exposure" this was first climbed by Steve Lynn and Greg Thoma in 1979.

My best side... =:o) I salivated over this climb from the time I first saw the full page photo in Climbing Magazine back in the late 1980's. I never dreamed I'd ever get to stand under it, let alone onsight it. Definitely the finest stemming I've ever encountered...

Alex Colville who runs Casa de Madera gift shop and climbing store in Del Norte told me he took one of the Lowe boys (George?) out to climb this one day. When he got to the first bolt he said he'd never been so intimidated on a climb in his entire climbing career. The first time I did it I climbed within a few inches of clipping then climbed down and my second introduced me to "stick clipping". It seemed wrong to do it at the time, but I did it and was glad to have the protection.

You couldn't ask for a better partner