Photos by addiroids

Here is me in my element. Take note of the suspenders. Yeah, I am hard indeed. 15 hrs on route and the best part is it was number 9 out of 9 attempts on walls with my partner Bill. Fun route, eventhough I took a fall at the ow on like the 6th pitch when I couldn't test a piece after the buldge.

Bill and Paul after 5 days of alpine climbing in the Whitney region. After 4 days we hadn't had our butt kicked, so we did Keeler Needle (about 10 hrs on route). That served up the proper butt kicking. I was cramping by the Red Dihedral (1/2 way on the route). Also, my camera got unscrewed on the crux ow, and fell 100' into Bill's hand. Best Buy exchanged it though!!

Yes, this climb is as beautiful as it looks from the ground. I thought it was going to be sustained pumpy stuff, but really it is just "take your time 5.9". Really, it isn't that hard, and if there IS a 10a section, it is at the top of the dihedral, and only lasts for like 2 moves. Beautiful route, definately my top 3 favorite!!!! Nice to get started at 10am too (due to shade in the morning).

His ribs hurt, he has hauled 8 pitches, and he is the only one who knows how to set this bastard up. I did all I could, but it was cramped quarters and that thing sure was twisted.

He looks a bit happier in the morning than at 10pm setting this thing up.

Racking up at the battle wagon for Zodiac. Mild mannered Bill becomes SuperCleaner as soon as "LEAD LINE FIXED" is shouted.

So the only move on the whole route I needed a cheat stick (which we didn't have) was a rivet on the first pitch. Fortunately a coat hanger at the bottom of the pitch and some duct tape solved that lack of ability to top step on overhanging climbing. It looks slabby in the pic, but look at the tag line. Plumb that and that's the angle.

So this dude who was sponsored by Eldrid and his g/f who was doing her first wall, fixed three, and started jugging as I started the route. We passed them on 6. Here is Bill and him chillin while I am leading Pitch 8. It was really nice of him to let us pass and they were a cool couple.

The infamous Black Tower pitch. Don't blow it here or you will deck 20-30 feet below. I didn't think that was the crux of the route though. Trickier placements higher up, but with less consequences.

Woops, this isn't Murphy's, but I'm not suffering as much as ice climbing either. My first portaledge bivy. You are too tired to be scared. Especially after spending 1 hour trying to set up a jumbled ledge that hasn't seen the light of day in 8 years. Aren't you glad you finally found a wall partner Bill? Total sleep: 5 hours. Almost not worth it.

Geez, I look stellar in the morning. Time to climb. Pitch 9 is awaiting. WAKE UP!!!! Just think what I would look like if I was a stoner. This is pretty much it.

From wake to climbing in 1 hour. Not too bad. Woops, gotta go real quick. Geez, look at the size of those balls!! I guess they grow after your first hanging bivy. Who knew (that I had any more room to grow)?

Pretty fixed with blue and green aliens to supplement. Not too bad at all. Fun eventhough I didn't lay back the nipple at "hard 5.9". I know, "what a wuss!".

Here is Bill at the belay. Probably hauling. He did a lot of that on this route.

Let me tell you something son. 5.9 in aids boots at the end of day 2 is pretty damn hard, but when the rest of the route is overhanging 14a tips, the 5.9 looks like 5.7. It wasn't. I was dead tired by this point and only free climbed like 50 feet up. The bolts are there because the flake you are climbing is so thin it will snap under the weight of a cam. The bags above are of Kate and Melissa. We caught up to them and got to hang out with them on summit day.

Big wall stylin'!!! Look at this girl. Handkerchief and all. Well I guess that is a good substitute for toilet paper to wipe. And such a handy place to keep it. Kate and Paul at 14 as she comes down to release the pigs. She and Melissa climbed in style, tupperware and all.

Is that a sleeping bag condom? Good work buddy, that was a lot of work hauling 6 days of crap for our 2 day wall. We need to plan a bit more next time. We didn't starve or become dehydrated. We planned on 3.5 days and at our rate of consumption could have lasted 6 or more.

Just me the morning after 42 hours of the hardest work I have ever done (minus 5 hrs for "sleep"). Look at those strung out veins. I have been shooting crack. Or is that shooting up the cracks?!?! Great route, and amazing job on the free climbing Uber bros, and Tommy!!

Trying for the Bridwell, Long, Westbay pic, but the distances were off. Cool to look at what you just did though.

This is a pic of me sorting gear after our ascent of Zodiac. Basically the only butt shot I have of me.

This is the belay just before the big chimney on Moonlight Buttress. YSW is some good stuff.

Bill and Beth from about 100 feet up Pitch 4 (off rocker blocker) on Moonlight. We did it in 9 hours base to top.

This is probably pitch 7 since I was super tired and Bill caught up to me. Also the only time I can remember that he was on my right.

Moabbeth getting ready for the long drive to Zion. Hey, is that a beer in your hand? You know what happens to people who drink and drive right??

This is a good shot of Bill cleaning. I have short fixed and only got like 15 feet out before Bill got to the anchor. Beth is below having fun jugging.