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Photos by bvb

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perfect winter temps

Average Rating = 3.30/5 perfect winter temps

this secluded and little-known area has vast potential for those willing to do the 100 mile drive from flagstaff.
Submitted by: bvb on 2006-01-17
Views: 1614 | Votes: 30 | Comments: 13
heart cave redux

Average Rating = 3.48/5 heart cave redux

some burly dude from phoenix does the heart cave, avoiding the dreaded curt shannon "signature series" beta.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-11-10
Views: 1873 | Votes: 27 | Comments: 9
dropzone

Average Rating = 3.56/5 dropzone

drew applies maximum torque to the heel-toe cam, midway through this vee-sharma flagstaff testpiece
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-11-04
Views: 1883 | Votes: 64 | Comments: 18
curt nails the dyno

Average Rating = 3.44/5 curt nails the dyno

curt sails toward the bucket on the heart cave problem, using his shannon "signature series" beta.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-08-21
Views: 1804 | Votes: 76 | Comments: 41
ryanG crimps like a fiend at Gloria's

Average Rating = 3.90/5 ryanG crimps like a fiend at Gloria's

blood crushed out of his tips at 500 psi, ryan pimps and crimps through the crux of a new B2 boulder problem at glorias rocks, march '05
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-06-24
Views: 1938 | Votes: 59 | Comments: 25
the most perfect limestone

Average Rating = 3.62/5 the most perfect limestone

extraordinary color accents this extraordinarily good highball in an obscure canyon near flagstaff
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-06-24
Views: 2125 | Votes: 40 | Comments: 12
sammy t. stretches his tendons

Average Rating = 3.53/5 sammy t. stretches his tendons

sam pulling hard in an obscure limestone draw near flagstaff
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-06-24
Views: 1903 | Votes: 34 | Comments: 2
luke finally sees daylight

Average Rating = 3.69/5 luke finally sees daylight

after 20' of horizontal, luke breaks out into the sun and the angle 'eases' into an 8 foot, 120 degree headwall.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-13
Views: 1344 | Votes: 34 | Comments: 15
noah's arete

Average Rating = 3.65/5 noah's arete

noah's arete, one of the best boulder problems in utah. photo by john wason.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 1547 | Votes: 39 | Comments: 12
goldrush

Average Rating = 3.55/5 goldrush

goldrush, typical of the stellar rock and thought-provoking heights found on hankry mountains boulder problems. photo by john wason.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 1340 | Votes: 35 | Comments: 15
The Vert

Average Rating = 3.59/5 The Vert

a scary, unnamed 20-footer on "the vert" boulder, hankry mountains, utah.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 1224 | Votes: 22 | Comments: 6
world leader pretend

Average Rating = 3.69/5 world leader pretend

"world leader pretend", a stellar roof problem near preist draw, arizona. photo by jocelyn van belle
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 1843 | Votes: 50 | Comments: 31
the roof

Average Rating = 3.79/5 the roof

moving into the crux wide fists section of this unnamed, dead-horizontal, 17' roof crack. photo by andy d.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 1823 | Votes: 50 | Comments: 24
the unnamed

Average Rating = 3.71/5 the unnamed

bvb on an unnamed 5-star highball at big rocks. photo by jocelyn van belle.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 2205 | Votes: 37 | Comments: 10
radio free loa

Average Rating = 3.68/5 radio free loa

bvb on the steep, positive cutter edges of "radio free loa", big rocks, utah. photo by john wason
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 2246 | Votes: 40 | Comments: 7
the shield

Average Rating = 3.89/5 the shield

jvb on the impeccable rock of "the shield" at big rocks, near capitol reef national park.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 2653 | Votes: 55 | Comments: 18
the brain, center route

Average Rating = 3.55/5 the brain, center route

jvb on the steep and unrelenting center route on the brain, big rocks, utah.
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 1492 | Votes: 30 | Comments: 9
the salton sea

Average Rating = 3.36/5 the salton sea

andy on an obscure roof near preist draw, arizona
Submitted by: bvb on 2005-04-09
Views: 3111 | Votes: 44 | Comments: 30
Vaino Kodas flashing Bad Ass

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Vaino Kodas flashing Bad Ass

Oldskooler Vaino Kodas hiked this Priest Draw classic as a warm-up before moving on to the much harder sends. Your climbing prime begins at 40....
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-06-10
Views: 2449 | Votes: 16 | Comments: 6
The Legendary Kerwin Klien

Average Rating = 0.00/5 The Legendary Kerwin Klien

FA of Carnivore, and half the other early hards in PD. he da Man.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-06-03
Views: 1268 | Comments: 0
SPLITTER

Average Rating = 3.83/5 SPLITTER

Note to sportclimbers, pocket fiends, and tusconites: bring tape. lots of it.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-06-03
Views: 1196 | Votes: 18 | Comments: 4
Basalt Dream Unit

Average Rating = 3.64/5 Basalt Dream Unit

A small Basalt crag near Gloria's. Quiet, secluded, and choice.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-05-23
Views: 1153 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 5
Eyeballing The Lip

Average Rating = 4.24/5 Eyeballing The Lip

jvb starts to work into the off-fingers crux at the lip of the B.C.O.F. This thing has a bad size for everybody...
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-05-18
Views: 1082 | Votes: 23 | Comments: 2
Cory On Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Cory On Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff

Another angle on this rarely-seen five star splitter. If you like pain, this bud's for you.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-05-18
Views: 951 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 0
Curt Shannon Tags The Lip On The Pet Tree Problem

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Curt Shannon Tags The Lip On The Pet Tree Problem

Still crimping after all these years, old man shannon puts the smackdown on Jim Gault's overhanging crimpfest meat tenderizing nightmare at Gloria's. Ouch.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-05-18
Views: 1388 | Votes: 15 | Comments: 7
The Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff

Average Rating = 3.58/5 The Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff

You don't find true splitter cracks in Flagstaff limestone too often, but they're out there. Here, JVB launches out this superb 18' hands and fingers roof, predictably referred to as "The Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff"
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-05-18
Views: 1819 | Votes: 13 | Comments: 0
Don't Let This Happen To You

Average Rating = 3.86/5 Don't Let This Happen To You

In a hurry to pack up and get out to an unclimbed 18' roof crack in an area near Priest Draw, I tried to cut open a gatorade bottle with a $50.00 german high-carbon steel paring knife and wound up damn near cutting off my finger instead. Here I am four hours after my second surgery, indulging in a little frontier "anasthesia". Moral of the story? Don't Drink and Knife ;-}
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-05-02
Views: 936 | Votes: 15 | Comments: 11
The Rabbit Valley Overhang

Average Rating = 4.22/5 The Rabbit Valley Overhang

Climbing at Big Rocks is all about big roofs on highly colorful bullet stone. This classic V5 roof charges 7' of full horizontal on letterbox pockets and sloping huecos, and is only one of the four problems that tackle this five star formation.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-04-12
Views: 1124 | Votes: 10 | Comments: 3
Curt and his Toupee

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Curt and his Toupee

Curt belays some hottie at Nuevo, January, 1985. Check at all that hair!
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-04-06
Views: 1529 | Votes: 4 | Comments: 2
Rick Piggot On The Undertow Roof

Average Rating = 4.27/5 Rick Piggot On The Undertow Roof

Description: Another legendary California mystery hardman from the 70's and 80's, Rick's gig was soloing Woodson 5.12's and El Cap spook routes. Here's Rick leading the massive Undertow Roof at Mt. Woodson, circa mid 80's. Like many Woodson rarities and obscurities, it's likely this route has not seen a chalk mark in 15 years.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-29
Views: 1709 | Votes: 39 | Comments: 9
Bruce

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Bruce "Kinnaloa" Pottenger and JVB, 7am, Looking For Coffee

J-Tree. '86. The typical scene outside our truck early in the morning. Bruce, the original climbing t-shirt kingpin and inventor of the first bouldering crashpad, is clearly in desperate need of java. Jocelyn, however, has obviously had too much. This ain't no #$@*% wienie roast, babe...
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-19
Views: 1431 | Votes: 10 | Comments: 2
Mike Paul Works On His Tan On Stem Gem

Average Rating = 4.21/5 Mike Paul Works On His Tan On Stem Gem

In the early 80's, NOBODY had the Stem Gem more wired than Mikey (aka Vawto, aka the Watusi). Barefoot, backwards, in the blistering noontime sun, and he could camp out there for hours. Just another mid-week bouldering sesh in the Monument...
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-19
Views: 2153 | Votes: 27 | Comments: 11
Leave It To Beaver, March 1980 -- A Tragic Failure

Average Rating = 4.07/5 Leave It To Beaver, March 1980 -- A Tragic Failure

Of all my way-too-many not-quite-flashes, 23 years later this is one of the tragic near-misses that still stings. On my very first ever attempt at the Beaver, betaless and wearing tennies, I powered through dozens of ill-concieved and off-sequence moves, finally pumping off the big jugs on the VERY LAST MOVE. Please God, someone just shoot me.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-19
Views: 1421 | Votes: 29 | Comments: 12
Generic Peabrain Shot

Average Rating = 4.08/5 Generic Peabrain Shot

Actually, you gotta hike past the Manx boulders to get to this. And yeah, this is me in the standard pose from the standard angle of a standard V3 problem. But what the hell, we had a great time that day...we were bouldering with Peggy Oki, pioneering Skateboarder, member of the original Zephyr skate team, soul sister watercolor artist, and, after a week with us, a fully transformed hard-core boulderer. Chalk up another one for the pebble wrestlers!
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-19
Views: 810 | Votes: 13 | Comments: 3
Let Us Now Praise Female Burl

Average Rating = 3.83/5 Let Us Now Praise Female Burl

Back in the day, only a handful of American female climbers could boast this kind of buffed-out rip. Sharon was one of 'em. After a steady, multi-year diet of 5.11 and 5.12 cracks, big walls, french limestone, alpine epics, hard bouldering, and multi-month road trips, she had some serious cut. Here she is in her prime, Spring 1987, warming up on some generic Jtree mega-classic...guess the route!
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-18
Views: 1562 | Votes: 12 | Comments: 10
jvb pumping granite on robbin's crack

Average Rating = 4.22/5 jvb pumping granite on robbin's crack

jvb on yet another airy, standard-issue 25-footer woodson highball: the robbin's crack. if you think the ropeless trip up is scary, better put on the diapers for the descent -- downclimbing the crack! photo shot back in march, 1985.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-18
Views: 1177 | Votes: 53 | Comments: 16
The Bachar Cracker Of New England

Average Rating = 3.71/5 The Bachar Cracker Of New England

Your humble poseur, uh, I mean poster, on the second ascent of the elusive and mysterious "Bachar Cracker Of New England." After I conned Sherman into the mandatory six-hour deforestation project required to clear the lip-and-slab topout, he bagged the first ascent(sonofabitch!) and I jetted up first thing the following spring determined to go full-on sendfest. To my knowledge, Verm and I have the only two ticks, but by now ya gotta figure the Franconia homeboys have been keeping busy on it...New England climbers, can you correct me on this?
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 749 | Votes: 15 | Comments: 4
Generic Midnight Lightning Shot

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Generic Midnight Lightning Shot

After working the route in miserable, wet, on-and-off snow conditions for two weeks in February and March of 1988, I had the match wired and was getting to the lip every time. Six or seven bad slappers from the mantle dimmed my enthusiasm a bit, and in late March the frikkin' Park Service transferred me to Boston. Haven't been back to the Valley since. After 15 years, it's probably time, eh? With pads, spotters and decent shoes, who knows...?
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 774 | Votes: 24 | Comments: 6
Another Choice High-Altitude Hankry Testpeice

Average Rating = 3.38/5 Another Choice High-Altitude Hankry Testpeice

Scattered among the old-growth poderosa pines in the Hankry Mountains of Eastern Utah are the Western hemisphere's finest nuggets. Bullet rock, sandbox landings, and a low-key scene that will have the most high-strung climbers taking afternooon naps. Have at it, grommets.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 832 | Votes: 8 | Comment: 1
JVB On Starving In Stereo

Average Rating = 4.00/5 JVB On Starving In Stereo

Jocelyn putting the smackdown on Starving In Stereo, 1986. At the time, Starving vied with the Lie Detector for "Hardest Climb At Woodson" status. Either way, you knew for damn sure that you'd better bring some tape...
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 981 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 3
Tom Lindner On Stairway To Heaven

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Tom Lindner On Stairway To Heaven

Tom Lindner hiking Stairway To Heaven, winter of 1985. During this era, Tom held undisputed King of the Hill status, and had a solo circuit that consisted of about 15 or 20 V4 - V6 "boulder problems" that averaged 30' high and featured no-nonsense "Game Over" landings. To this very day, Tom defines the term Hardcore.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 1323 | Votes: 8 | Comments: 6
Palm Reading on the Stem Gem

Average Rating = 4.10/5 Palm Reading on the Stem Gem

Underground hardman and archetypal all-arounder John Wason geckos his way through the insecure stemming and palming on this most classic of all J-Tree classics.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 743 | Votes: 23 | Comments: 8
Jaws -- Same Day, Different Lap

Average Rating = 4.27/5 Jaws -- Same Day, Different Lap

Here's Jocelyn on, like, lap number 8, trying to bust the record for the most consecutive solo laps on Jaws back in 1985. Can you spell wired? 18 years later, and she can still huck laps on the sucker like it's a 5.6 slab, despite the fact that this inch-and-a-quarter ankle-breaker has a bad size for everybody. Me? I wanna Top Rope. Go figure.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 1034 | Votes: 17 | Comments: 6
Can You Say Concentration?

Average Rating = 3.82/5 Can You Say Concentration?

Yosemite Valley, Spring of 1986, and the lovely Jocelyn Van Belle is inches away from ticking her first 5.12 flash on Peter's Out, an old Croft route established in 1979.(Jocie's on a TR though -- lose style points for that, I guess.) You can tell by the look on her face that she is zeroed in on those tips jams with laser-like focus. And she's looking pretty damn good, I'd say, for someone who hasn't showered in two weeks. My wife...I think I'll keep her.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 817 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 2
Big Rocks -- The Skull Rock Roof

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Big Rocks -- The Skull Rock Roof

Typical of Big Rocks bouldering is this long, powerful sit down roof. After travelling miles of horizontal, relief is granted when you finally hit the big huecos at the lip. But it ain't over till it's over -- a burly topout now awaits the fully pumped pebble wrestler!
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-16
Views: 732 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 0
Wide Open Spaces At Big Rocks

Average Rating = 3.90/5 Wide Open Spaces At Big Rocks

Joceyln Van Belle enjoys the spectacular setting at Big Rocks, near Capitol Reef National Park and located on the northern edge of the 9,000 foot Awapa Plateau. The lush Rabbit Valley lies in the background, with 11,600 foot Thousand Lake Mountain looming behind.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-16
Views: 685 | Votes: 11 | Comment: 1
Jocelyn on the Whiffle Ball

Average Rating = 3.83/5 Jocelyn on the Whiffle Ball

Jocelyn starts to air it out on the Whiffle Ball, one of many superb highball boulder problems at Big Rocks, an area loaded with off-the-deck moderates. The problem Jocelyn's on in this photo is a 30' V2 heavily pocketed jug haul with the crux down low, and a must-do for those visiting the area. Look for full beta on Big Rocks in the soon-to-be-released Russo/Baldwin/Beck Utah Bouldering Guide.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-16
Views: 921 | Votes: 12 | Comments: 4
Epi, Showing Some Serious Buff

Average Rating = 3.73/5 Epi, Showing Some Serious Buff

Once upon a time, epi ruled the scene when it came to long, knee-knocking runouts and steep boulder problems that demanded flexibility and raw, unfettered power. Here's Greg in his prime, circa 1985, showing us how it's done on his shamelessly sandbagged B1 "Epicenter", Mt. Woodson.
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-16
Views: 1256 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 3
Stingray -- The First Recon

Average Rating = 3.82/5 Stingray -- The First Recon

Here's one for the history books -- March 1985 -- Brooke Sandahl and Mike Paul making the first attempts on Stingray, later TR'd by Mike to become JTree's hardest crack. On this freezing March day, good progress ws made, but man did the fingers get COLD!
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-16
Views: 1966 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 3
Crimpin' The Dimes on Valhalla

Average Rating = 3.94/5 Crimpin' The Dimes on Valhalla

Round about the late '70's, on what must of been our 50th ascent of this route, Alan (Pywiac) dropped the belay rope just long enough to snap this photo. I didn't notice, 'cause I was zeroed in on the upcoming runout on nickles and dimes...the Friend on my rack was a just-past-prototype unit that alan brought from Jardine for $18.00 bucks...what a rip-off!
Submitted by: bvb on 2003-03-17
Views: 2247 | Votes: 17 | Comments: 4
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