Photos by dirko

At the base of the Finger of Fate, post lightning. We bailed after hitting the caprock as the storm rolled in.

Paul Mohn greet the morning from the Second Error bivy ledge. Note tent.

Pictured are Bryce, Swillin' Bear, and my blue foot. It was the last pitch, 7 a.m. and I was going to have to go to work in 5 short hours. The highlight of the route was definitely spooning Dave on Camp VI, brrrr.

This proud line finally went in Spring 2002. You're looking at the easy part... before the five-foot roof. Sorry dude, I don't remember your name. Photo by Dirk Peters.

It was a rainy day so the only logical thing to do was add a 4-move extension to the sit-start of this fine problem. Alex gets ready for the send. 20-35mm, ISO 400

Bugs are gone, friction is back. Well, the bugs are *almost* gone. John Hur is pictured on a 12a in the Concave. Photo by Dirk Peters. Photo beta: 20-35, 1/180, f/5.6, fill flash.

After a few tries on a V4 dyno at Hound Ears in 2001, this piece of tape was the only thing left. It didn't go. Photo beta: Canon Elan 7e, 28-80mm, ISO 400.

Jereme Chandler of Riverside, CA, walks a fatty line on the Merced River in El Cap Meadow. Thanks for scoring us the webbing, Anthony! Photo beta: Canon 20-35mm, Fuji Superia 400. Photo by Dirk Peters

Nestled beside one of the tributaries of the Obed River near the town of Wartburg, TN, lie the steepest roofs this side of sanity. Some have complained that the routes are monotonous, but is this spray just a posturing response to the fact that many of these routes are "only" 5.11 or 5.12? It's a sandstone jungle gym. Pictured is Heresey, THE line at Lily Bluff. While the 11c crux is on the face....Ladies and gentlemen, this 20+ fooot roof clocks in at 5.10! Climber: Jerm Houghton. Photo: Dirk Peters. Beta: Nikon N90s, 35-70mm Nikkor, Fuji 800, direct flash.

L.D. climbs on one of the umpteenth variations to the sweet boulder in the far back of Shaking Rock. The problems petite crimps will will shut down the tall guys, as well as anyone climbing between April and October, but it's the kind of problem that you just want to do again and again. Photo by Dirk Peters. Beta: Olympus Stylus Epic, Kodak T-Max 400.

I got this shot on my last night in Mexico, maybe the second week of January 2003. I just set the camera on a lawn chair and let it go for about 30 seconds. For everyone who has never been, the Potrero is a unique and beautiful place...only the Valley was harder to leave.

John Hur takes the big swing on the crux dyno of Ethnic Cleansing (5.12). Sqeaking in before the onset of the truely hot weather, he redpointed (next try) in the day's last light. This route is generally pretty tight, and a good introduction to the hard climbing of the bunkers.

On hot summer days at the Obed, Lily Bluffs can get more traffic than Main Street in nearby Wartburg... but hike for half an hour back to the Y-12, and cool, classic, north-facing climbs await. Climbers however, rarely have to wait at all, you'll probably have the place all to yourself. Shown here John Knowles (left) on Carnivore 11b racing Justin Griffin (right) on Herbivore 11a. Both routes are long, sustained, and fun. Photo beta: Fuji Superia 400, 28-80mm, Canon Elan 7e. Photo by Dirk Peters.

Despite the epic approach, despite the even more epic crowds, the Snake Dike still kicks ass. It has great exposure, unique features, and you tick Halk Dome to boot. Climber: Justin Griffin. Photo beta: Kodachrome 100, 50mm, Minolta X-700. Photo by Dirk Peters.

Mike from Michigan gets his game face on pulling an unknown problem at Horse Pens 40. Mike, I met you first in Wild Iris this summer, are you still out there? Uh-oh. The mantle is the crux. Photo by Dirk Peters.

Snake Eyes was the first problem done at Shaking Rock, originally cleaned and sent by Doug Duncan in the early 70's. Don't worry, the crux is down low... if you can find the "thank god" jug! Climber: John Hur. Photo by Dirk Peters.

Laramie Duncan sets her sights on the last bolt of Too in Clear Creek Canyon, CO. This is one of the better routes at Little Eiger, IMHO, save some juice for the last move though! Photo by Dirk Peters.

Was anyone else in the valley that special day in late July, 2001? There was a amazing double rainbow over Half Dome just before dusk. Shown here from Sentinel Bridge. Photo beta is Kodachrome 100, 28mm, Minolta X-700. Photo by Dirk Peters.

This is officially my favorite boulder problem in the world. I did it seven times last time I was at Horse Pens. It's that good. You are slapping your way up this perfect, arcing arete... Photo beta: 400 Kodak Gold, 28-80, Canon Elan 7e. Climber: Dirk Peters. Photos by Scott Gross. Photo editing by Dirk Peters.

My profile photo. Foreground: Justin Romanowitz. En fuego: Dirk Peters. Photo by Julie Gathman.

Why send when you can levitate? OK, Laramie Duncan did not actually climb the Mandala. But does getting the send really matter when you have acheived true inner peace? I guess if I sent this thing, I would have true inner peace anyways. There are so many photos of guys and gals cranking hard, I just thought I'd submit this photo for a change of pace. Photo by Dirk Peters.

The comely expression on my face is related to the state of the lid of the can of beans. Observe the jagged edges. When my leatherman broke the day before, I resorted to punching it open with a screwdriver. I was a hungry mutha, what can I say. Key beta for any climber wanting to do the Triple Direct is two bags of mint tuxedo cookies from Safeway. Photo by Justin Romanovitz.

Most of the rock at Black Mountain is crumbly conglomerate, but there are some noteworthy exceptions. Al Jazeera is one of them. It climbs out a sequency 45-degree arete to the top-out slopers shown here. I think I did the FA in December 2001, can anyone recognize it? Walter Chan gets the last moves sussed, as Patrick Schaerer spots. Photo by Dirk Peters.

Is Rock Wars the best trad climb at the Red? You'll have to climb it to know for sure, but if something else is better you should PM me now! I did not burn or dodge this photo, the light was just right. I even took it with my $20 point-and-shoot. Right before this photo was taken, I took a 30-foot ride when I found myself too pumped to clip the anchors, and pulled a .75 Camalot in the process. It's all on video, and if someone knows Brice from Birmingham, make him send me a tape! Climber: John Hur. Photo by Dirk Peters.

This climb is a Red River Gorge classic--long, pocketed, and the crux is at the top! Just when you are beginning to get pumped, there is a nice strenuous layback crack for your climbing pressure. It also stays dry in the rain; it was drizzling when I got this shot. In the photo below, John Hur fights the pump to snag the flash ascent of the route. Photo by Dirk Peters.