Photos by rgold

The chopolette consists of four five-foot strands of 7 mm perlon, and is used in the construction of anchors.

These are the four strands of the chopolette laid out separately.

The chopolette can be used to construct fixed powerpoint anchors. This is one of two ways.

This is another way to rig the chopolette in a fixed power point configuration.

The chopolette can be used as a fully equalizing system.

The equalizer portion of the chopolette, an anodized pear biner and a shoulder length sling.

The sliding X configuration used in the equalizer creates the possibility of severe binding.

This anchor has the ability to change the orientation of its power point, but it does not equalize the load to the anchor points. The strand tensions and anchor loads are given in terms of the anchor point load F

This anchor equalizes the load to three pieces. Other than the descending rings (which should not be the rolled aluminum type) it uses ordinary gear: a cordelette and a two-foot sling.

This proposed equalizing anchor actually loads the anchors in the ratio 1:2:1. The tension in each arm is indicated by T. The tensions are all the same because of the indicated pulley actions. The anchor loads are written at the anchors.

The following photos depict the load-elongation curve for a Marlowe rope. The left-hand photo shows the curve as given; the right-hand photo shows how the curve looks if both axes are drawn to the same scale.

The locking girth hitch has been proposed as an effective method for one-handed set-up of opposed pieces. I have found it unreliable, especially when using the new "dental floss" slings. These picture depict the third two steps in a method I think is more suitable.

The locking girth hitch has been proposed as an effective method for one-handed set-up of opposed pieces. I have found it unreliable, especially when using the new "dental floss" slings. These picture depict the second two steps in a method I think is more suitable.

The locking girth hitch has been proposed as an effective method for one-handed set-up of opposed pieces. I have found it unreliable, especially when using the new "dental floss" slings. These picture depict the first two steps in a method I think is more suitable.

Choosing an angle for a photo that accurately represents "reality" is not so easy. Here are two examples from the great scolding fuss-up.

Three pictures showing a mother and child free soloing...something. In each case, the picture has been rotated to so that an edge is parallel to some trees. The trees used are no longer visible in two of the pictures because of the cropping imposed by the rotation. The lowest picture is the top one, the next highest is lower left, and the highest is lower right

A bit of upside-down training in the bouldering cave at the Inner Wall, New Paltz, NY.

Now that I'm past sixty, cool Fall climbing days begin with a radiator warm-up, baking arthritic joints and scar tissue laced sinew into toasty submission before doddering out to the crag.

The six carabiner anchor is gear intensive, but has the advantage of being easily constructed when the pieces are out of reach of the belayer at his or her stance. In such situations, cordalettes can be especially cumbersone to employ, requiring extension slings on the gear and so using up about the same number of biners.

The four-carabiner anchor, constructed with just the rope, has the same force distribution properties as anchors constructed with a separate cordalette.

A view of the Red Rock campground from the ridge above

The traverse to Yellow Ridge on the second pitch.

corrected version with horizontal horizon