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Katrina - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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John Myrick
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Bolt 4 is over the big tufas. The jug off left towards the top is "on route"; The Stain was bolted later and borrows it.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2013-04-09
Views: 1221
Route ID: 111015

10 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 10 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars finally sent all Mossy Wall routes below Ghost.

Beta spoilers: reaching the tufas is done a million ways. Careful foot placement helps reach the lefthand finger sloper. Then I found it more controlled to move left foot (which was off left) back under me into a previously used pocket, then right hand goes to palm the tufa right of the big one, then casually bumps to the big one.

For me and big people, I think it's key to solve the upper crux by smearing right foot on teh big tufa near its top, then power into a left foot stem on The Stain's big horn to help snatch the left slot.

On grading, this route has two power cruxes but requires less power than Never Was (11d) and Moss Cervasa (11c-12a???), but that's when totally wired with perfect foot choice.

Added: 2014-11-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2012-12-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Katrina

First day I was on this I thought that jug to the left was off route. I ended up sending it my 3rd time on the direct line. 3 months later I came back and used the jug. Much easier! Fun route with neat holds and the tufas attract a lot of attention. Definitely a NS classic.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars stellar rock climbing

relax. keep your cool. climb efficiently. veer left after #4 to follow the natural line (it's well chalked after all), then manage any pump heading to the anchors. i prefer to clip them while standing at chain level and to the right where there is a giant jug over the top. :)

Added: 2012-09-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: evening on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice movement

sent on 2nd try; probably 11c/d

Added: 2012-09-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: pedro_sandchez on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Adam Leedy

Super fun route. Definitely destined to be a North Shore classic. Flashed the crux and fell at the chains. But got back on and sent second go.

Added: 2012-09-10

... Read all 10 ascent notes