Skip to Content

Higher - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
6 bolts and anchors (1st bolt or bolts shared with Corsicane Brothers)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Splits off of Corsicane Bro's start and goes straight up to the point that's Higher than CB's anchors. (Now CB has an alternate finish up there, still at 10a.) The grade of Higher is VERY HEIGHT DEPENDENT and ranges from about 5.11b to 5.12a or more. Every inch of reach counts on this one. A 6'6" guy might think it's mid 10. 11b seems like a better floor for most of the taller population. Annette (5.5 + 2" ape?) felt 12a. The shorter you are to that, the more it will head towards 5.16.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-19
Views: 761
Route ID: 112605

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: pedro_sandchez on 2014-03-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars pretty fun addition to the wall

Sent it second go. Felt mid-11 and I'm 5'5" with a +3

Added: 2014-03-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: twelvestringtex on 2012-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bouldery Shouldery

Not my style, made me happy to snag it!

Added: 2012-10-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2012-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars guarded this FA with Climb Tech technology

I applied for this line mainly to add a fun extension to Corsican Brothers. CB's low anchors are likely because Bird didn't like the looks of the clifftop arete. I checked all around it, seeing good support between the various crack lines.

The new lead route proved to have a lively crux and the pump remained through the finish, so it came out better than expected. Do it in pure spirit, ignoring the grade because the height dependency leaves the grade meaningless. But this database requires a grade. 5.11b-or-less-to-5.12a-or-more.

I sent it the first session after bolting but hadn't expected it to go down that fast. So instead of untrustworthy redtagging to guard the FA, I'd left several holes without bolts, came back, inserted Climb Tech removable bolts, and sent it.

Beta spoiler: high left foot, fight to reach obvious left finger sloper, bump it a little higher, deadpoint the obvious shelf.

Added: 2012-09-19