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Rocky Mountain Oysters - 5.7

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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unknown
Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
G
1
easily protected with fist sized gear in the crack on your right. You can setup a toprope on this route easily with Cams in the 5 range and slings around the boulders (they are solid).
75
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A great slab / fist crack left of the Free Pear and Apple route. The easiest way to describe its location is from the top of the Free Pear and Apple route, if you were to walk off left, and climb down, this route is the crack that is visibly facing the trail. It appears to be this really big offwidth/ Chimney from the ground that leads to a rounding boulder widening, but when you get at the base, you see it is just shadow tricks. There is a little moss, but the rock is excellent, and it is a lot of fun! Slab, fist jam, double fist jam, shelf, and an armbar are the techniques needed. I am not sure of the history of this route, but we threw a name on it just to get it more attention. If anyone knows the history, name, etc. I will update that.

Descent Options:

hike off the backside, or setup a rap off either the bolts on the pear and apple, which is hard to get at due to a gap. I am sure there are other ways down.

Submitted by: asellers98 on 2012-10-26
Views: 1058
Route ID: 112841

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: asellers98 on 2012-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First route of the day

This route is a lot of fun! Not your typical WMWR climb. It is a great warmup route. I climbed it with my right fist in the crack and sometimes my right foot, but the major of the climb is a slab climbing technique. There is a shelf when you need it on your left hand, and at some points you can opt to do a double fist jam, and pull your feet up for better purchase. At the top you can do an arm bar for a bomber lead.



Added: 2012-10-26