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Negro Vortex - 5.10a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Follow the fist-sized crack that shares the start of Dry Rain and Gomer Pile. After pulling the roof, traverse left on a hand crack (first crux) using a black varnished wall and the crack itself for feet. Alternatively, move up to another crack, using the left-traversing hand crack for feet. If you traverse left at the hand crack, there will be an obvious place to move right and join the other hand crack when further leftward traversal becomes difficult. Follow this left-leaning crack to the top, where it narrows to thin hands (second crux) and then leads to a water groove below the chains. Note: The topo line in the Miramonte guidebook appears to be wrong on one or two counts. First, it shows all three routes beginning on a thin, right-slanting, likely unprotectable seam; the routes clearly in the fist-crack to the right of this seam. Second, it shows the route traversing far left at the hand crack at the roof, and then going up at a blank, whitish section of section. I found it more natural to move right to the other hand crack when further leftward traversal became difficult.

Descent Options:

Rappel on chains

Submitted by: alexoverhere on 2015-12-21
Views: 575
Route ID: 115978

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: alexoverhere on 2015-12-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars excellent route

This is a wonderful route, full of burly but excellent hand jamming and great rests. TR'd it cleanly at the end of the day -- plan to go back and lead it.

Added: 2015-12-21