Bongo Fury - 5.11c

I first tried to flash this a few weeks ago and have to say I underestimated it a bit. It's quite beta intensive and very tricky if you don't do it right. It also feels a bit intimidating on lead and I feel like that held me back a bit. Have to admit I felt sketched and lowered off the anchors not really liking the route. I worked the beta on TR and then sent next session on TR. It is much more enjoyable now. Seems to be one of those routes most people lead once and then TR the rest of the times. Going to have to lead this soon though, it's fun.

Sent this today, then tried the direct. Got past the crux but fell on the crux of this 11c. Will send soon.

Very pocket intense route, the direct is even more so. You're fingers will hurt after a few tries.

Super great route with a boulder start and a slab finish. In between is a fun 5.9 climbing with a hands free rest. Be careful clipping the second bolt--there will be a lot of rope out and you are clipping off of a small 2 finger clip.

very fun. nearly flashed it on first go on TR.

May 31, 2009: clean on TR.

best route on prototype wall. This route is tougher for short people at the top as you have to make a very reachy move off a slopy side pull to the right hand pinch. tall people can just reach past off the good low feet.