Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands
Triassic Sands - 5.10c popular
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 19
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (46)
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Rock
Standard rack to 3", doubles/triples recommended in the hand sizes.
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Description:
Note: On 3/27/06, the belay bolts on the third and fourth pitch along with one protection bolt on the fourth pitch were replaced by the ASCA! Triassic Sands ascends a striking series of near perfect cracks up the western side of Whiskey Peak. Steep, sustained, and excellent climbing make this route a must-do for any 5.10 leader visiting the area. Approach as per Wholesome Fullback, then skirt the cliff to the left until you reach a short offwidth/corner with a striking roof/finger crack above. Pitch 1: Head up the offwidth to a nice ledge. 5.7, 40' Pitch 2: Work through the tiered overhangs on the left side of the ledge and then follow the amazing hand/offhands crack to a belay stance. 5.10c, 130' (Can be linked with the first pitch). Pitch 3: Continue up the crack past one bolt then eventually step left into another crack and follow this to a nice ledge. 5.8, 130' (Variation: Continue straight up the crack, eventually arriving at the same ledge. 5.9?) Pitch 4: Move up to the 'Fang' above, then up the spectacular dihedral above to a bolted stance. 5.10a, 110' [Note: This is the last point to rap the route with double ropes, otherwise, you must continue to the summit]. Pitch 5: Head up the left leaning ramp to a corner. Follow this corner to a nice ledge. 5.7, 100' Pitch 6: Follow another corner to your left up to a cool rib of rock. Follow the rib to a ledge system and then make your way to another ledge system about 25' above. 5.7, 130'. Descent: Work your way up to the summit ridge, then down into the gully below. From here, head left to the saddle above, then follow the abundant cairns back down to the trail you came in on. Alternatively, it is possible to make a right here and descend to Refried Brains and work your way out of the canyon that way.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-03-27
Views: 2652
Route ID: 14349
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46 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 46 ascent notes
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Onsight ascent by: ab_love on 2016-05-20
(View Climbing Log)
First three pitches before the rain
No comment
Added: 2016-05-20
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-04-24
(View Climbing Log)
funtastic
See zealotnoob's comment below. I second that.
Added: 2011-05-04
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-04-23
(View Climbing Log)
great cruiser route
Fun route with punctuated cruxes and cruiser sections between. Bring triples in #2 and #3 and stretch out placements for the cruiser sections.
Added: 2011-05-03
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-04-18
(View Climbing Log)
Super Awesome
This is a great climb. All the crack climbing is just fantastic. There's a short section of junk above the third pitch before the roof but other than that just great rock and moves in a beautiful location. Accidentally started up Sandblast the first time. The corner looks further left in the Handren guide because of the photo perspective but you should be climbing super easy open book, not a wide and sort of difficult lieback thing and the roof has several overhanging moves that are chalked up to perfect hands forever.
Added: 2011-04-18
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Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: baja_java on 2011-04-03
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Ascent Note
4th pitch is really, really good. Wild. Fantastic. Do it.
Added: 2011-04-04