Routes : North America : United States : Washington : Central Washington : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Saber, Upper Castle Rock
Saber, Upper Castle Rock - 5.5

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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To 2.5"
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Description:
Don't make this your first Trad lead-I did, and my ass is still tight. Up a buttress for 20' (easy) then a long 90' of thrashing in a corner and an exposed traverse, with no real reliable pro, for 20' and a scramble up to the ledge. Bomber turnbuckle anchors. Then up a 5.4 chimney, and a scramble to the top.
Submitted by: valeberga on 2004-05-31
Views: 1469
Route ID: 1816
9 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 9 ascent notes
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
A favorite
A real cruiser. Lots of options on the upper first pitch. Stay out on the face or take the corner. Both are good.
Added: 2011-08-15
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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5.5 gold
great climb! my partner had a bit of trouble finding the traverse ledge so if in doubt go higher and it will be super obvious.
Added: 2011-06-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
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Classic route, but not straightforward.
This is a fun, easy route - but might be a little confusing for a new leader. The first pitch is the best - up the corner in the dihedral, but then there is a sizable (at least 20-25') traverse to the left to reach the homemade (but solid) belay bolts on Saber Ledge. The length of the traverse is unusual, and rope drag can be a big issue if people underestimate just how far away the bolts are. From the bolts, there are lots of variations to finish the route - but it's easy and fun.
Added: 2010-08-22
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
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Great line, some thought-provoking moves. The upper pitch is a blast mostly because you can climb just about anywhere. I placed gear mostly just so my follower knew where to go!
Added: 2007-09-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
pretty fun
pretty fun route...first pitch is the funnest, but the entire route is gold
Added: 2007-07-28