Public Hanging - 5.11d

Hard clip above the roof.

My short friends had trouble.

Overall this is not a great route, it has one interesting move and the rest is either very easy or sharp crimping. The route does have two poorly placed bolts though. It seems that the folks who bolted many of the routes in this area have, shall we say, "creative" ideas about where bolts should be placed. It does tell us something about HVP that this route gets a lot of stars. In HVP it is a good route, but anywhere else in the world it would get 2 starts at best.

First tried this route about 2 years ago, and got totally shut down at the roof. Gotten better at it since then - better at deadpointing and sticking the reach to flake. Long roof reach, then crimpiness, but other than that not too sustained. My partner suggested that the odd roof bolt placement might be due to it being placed carelessly on rap (with it being in nearly straight line with the other bolts, instead of being in a convenient clipping position). I've resorted to climbing up the middle, clipping the bolt, down climbing a bit, then climbing up directly under the roof-lip-crimp.

match on crimper, put draw on and clip with left hand, downclimb to rest. go back to crimper and fire up with right hand to jug.