Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Western Slope : Colorado National Monument : Bell Tower (Kissing Couple) : Long Dong Wall Route

Long Dong Wall Route - 5.11a

Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)

Premier Sponsor:

First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Stoppers, hexes, and cams. Camalot #.1 to #4, doubles #.4 to #2. A couple small Ball Nuts are nice f

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

Cool route! Follow the Monument Canyon Trail around the tower to the Northwest face then scramble up scree to the base. Locate the saddle between Bell Tower and the smaller tower to the south. Boulder problem takes you to ledge and obvious double crack system on south face of Bell Tower. Pitch 1: (5.11a) Climb up double crack system (5.10+) with sidepulls, fingerlocks, handjams, and stemming. Fun pitch! Bring a lot because it can be a little scary. Follow crack system and traverse left (5.11a) at a drilled pin. Save a trad draw for this precarious little move. Pitch 2: (5.7)Goes up obvious chimney. Mostly easy climbing is followed by a squeeze chimney. Pro: Camalots #2 to #4. Save at least 1 #3 for the top. Pitch 3: (4th class) Carefully scramble up right on blocks with some loose stuff. Squeeze through chimney to large ledge with slings around rock. Pro: Nothing if you're comfortable on 4th high off the deck. Just be careful. Pitch 4: (5.8) From ledge step across and up sandy offwidth with good, but delicate holds on face. Next, go up easy, but exposed climbing on large flake trapped between main tower and huge arch that forms the belfry. A little spooky because you can't tell what is holding it all together and it is runout at top. Plus, you have to body wedge between the arch and the tower, making you wonder if you might just pry it apart. Pro: hexes for start, and run of cams. Pitch 5: (5.10 - if you're short, otherwise pretty easy)Stem up past two bolts to bird and bat feces infested "cave". Go right after bolts following crack and then head left to tight squeeze tunnel. Pro: 2 draws, 2 long runners, stoppers, and a few medium cams (#.5). From anchors pop up to the summit for the view. Descent: Rap 1: From summit anchors descend to ledge on top of pitch 3. Be sure to throw rope becuase lowering it will drop it into a big ugly crack. From here, downclimb pitch 3 or rappel, your call. Rap 2: With 60 meter ropes you can easily make it to the ground from anchors on top of pitch 2.

Submitted by: mikemachineco on 2002-11-26
Views: 1388
Route ID: 26949

Record Ascent Add Photo Add to Hit List Bookmark

7 Ascents Recorded

Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

really good

The rock on the first pitch is questionable. Take care. The right side of the block on the fourth pitch may be better.

Remember to start on the north side, not the south side as advised in a poorly written guide book.

Added: 2008-08-16