Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Phoenix Area : Superstition Mountains : Suction Gully : Grandfather Hobgoblin
Grandfather Hobgoblin - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
Premier Sponsor:
FA: Chuck Graff, Fred Hill 1972
FFA: Larry Treiber (rope solo) 1976
Rock (Trad)
4
standard trad rack, hexes and lowe tri-cams, quickdraws and slings
300
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Description:
Ever steepening, this route gets harder the higher you go. The pitch 3, 9+ variation should not be skipped. When you reach the highest spire on the north side of Suction Gulley, look for a couple of troughs coming to the ground from a notch on the left side of the spire; start in the right trough in a tricky dihedral. Start behind a tree and head for the notch. You can combine the first two pitches to reach the notch. The third pitch goes due left about 25' to a crack system heading northeast up the arete. (Variation: head straight up from the notch on 5.9 face with one bolt; joins regular route above). The fourth pitch heads left to a thin crack to reach the first bolt. Work hard through the 5.9 crux face (great rock) spiraling above a down sloping ledge and finish on runout slab to top.Descent Options:
double ropes to south and start of route.
Submitted by: ocotillo on 2002-11-24
Last Modified: 2010-02-01
Views: 2174
Route ID: 27643
Most Recent Photos
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2011-01-16
(View Climbing Log)
none
yeah, the last pitch is money
Added: 2011-01-16
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: sonso45 on 2010-01-05
(View Climbing Log)
Wow! Heady climbing at the finish.
We did it as two parties of two. Nice day and warm to boot. The 5.9 part was ok, the final runout was a tad exhilarating.
Added: 2010-01-05
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-02-19
(View Climbing Log)
_
Linked p1/p2. Bolts on p4 are interesting. the 1st one is labeled "Bad Bolt" At the 2nd bolt I went straight up despite what the guidebook said (something about going left). The 3rd bolt was too far from where I was (and would have caused crazy rope drag anyway) so I skipped it. Easy climbing above so not a big deal. The approach and descent in Suction Gully realllly sucks!
Added: 2008-04-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
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Onsight ascent by: raymondjeffrey on 2007-11-12
(View Climbing Log)
Hated the approach and descent cuz it was really steep and crumbly
Fun climb. Proud accomplishment.
Added: 2007-11-12
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Onsight ascent by: djpuckle on 2004-09-16
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Combine the first and second pitch into one! Running the second and third together is one hell of an experiment in rope drag, but a great mountaineering belay. sling the bad bolt on pitch 4 and zig zag up it, it's solid!
Witnessed by: joshklingbeil
Added: 2004-09-16
Added: 2004-09-16