Routes : North America : United States : California : Ventura County : Wheeler Gorge : Routes 0-6 : #02, "Danger Boy"

#02, "Danger Boy" - 5.11a

Average Rating : 3.82 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

7 bolts, 2 cold shut anchors

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

Awesome route on awesome rock! Straight up the center of the face. Boulder problem-like crux above first bolt, then .10 climbing to the top. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. A good variation for the non 11a leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR.

Submitted by: climbingeek on 2005-04-04
Views: 1144
Route ID: 28194

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Read all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: zarrkon on 2013-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

fun climb

The start was surprisingly challenging

Added: 2013-06-15

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: ilikepargo on 2012-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

Fun Fun Fun...

Did NOT use the giant sidepull on the right. Instead, figured a sequence on some st00pidly small crimps. Didn't come close on the onsight, but nailed the redpoint second time up.

Tough crux. Great rock. Fun route.

Edit = I did this route a week ago. I'm still enjoying it. It's deceptive how good it is, because the crux is low. The top seems anti-climactic. But it really is a terrific route. Great rock. Great crux. And wonderful variety, both in holds and in moves, all the way up. As soon as I finish this sentence, I'm gonna add a star to my rating.

Added: 2012-06-02

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Hang Dog ascent by: kyleht287 on 2010-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

Best route at Wheeler

This route is great. Pretty burly V2+ boulder crux just above first bolt. Got it clean on TR after blowing the onsight. Thought that the sidepull off right was off, but it turns out it's just a squeeze job.

Added: 2010-10-30