Previousunknown - 5.9
Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
G
2 bolt anchor, no chains
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Description:
after consultation with other climbers, this climb is upgraded to a 5.9/5.9+ for shorties or those who are weak on weird laybacks, except that many who disagree were not consulted so really the grade is undecided... the key - don't stop, keep moving. trad or toprope. layback inside corner below block, escape to ledge, mount block and stroll up "ladder" NOTE: I originally graded this route 5.6, but several short people ad a lot of trouble with it. I often rope-solo this route with ease, but I am 6' 5".
Submitted by: aeray on 2007-03-25
Views: 1097
Route ID: 38087
4 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
fun crack
Fun trad lead, bad rope drag especially if you top rope w/out a seriously long extension
Added: 2012-07-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Definately 5.6/5.7
Fun! Easy climb good jams, I don't know why everyone is talking about liebacking so much. The jams are super solid. But none the less fun. Don't know why there are bolts at the top since it could be led and then walked off. Not all climbs need to toproped.
Added: 2007-09-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
just a note
I, the original poster, originally listed this climb as a 5.6. There is a bit of a stretch where good layback skills are necessary, but the climb overall is not particularly hard for me. But I am 6' 5" and after my posting of the climb, several local climbers, some much shorter than me, complained that the grade was too low. After consultation with the locals, I regraded the climb to the current rating, although I also disagree with it. Personally, I stand by my original grade of 5.6, perhaps 5.7, but I will reluctantly defer to local opinion, which is perhaps misguided, (or inexperienced), because I feel that is a little bit silly to argue about grades of climbs at this level, and also about climbs that are so infrequently climbed. Lets all just climb and have fun. Mea Culpa.
Added: 2007-03-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Ascent Note
My FIRST trad lead! good climb. I'd rate it harder than a 5.6 though, Maybe even 5.8? I top-roped it before I led it too.
I STRONGLY contest the upgrade of this climb. In keeping w/ the old-school, exploratory, adventurous nature of the McCall area, this is NOT 5.9. Its trickiness is largly due to the lichen on the lieback holds and most likely one's inexperiance climbing mungy wide cracks. Climb a Joshua Tree/Yosemite/Seneca/Needles/Vedawoo/or Red Rocks trad 5.9 and tell me this is not way easier. Sorry to disagree, but no-one asked me :)
EDIT: YEp, you are right...in the end the grade (especially when it figures in at a whoping 5.9) is meaningless and your height, strength, skill, the weather, and the rock condition determine the "real" grade. So, I agree, let's just have fun on it and appreciate it as a great (and challenging) beginner crack route in a rad little town in Idaho...
I STRONGLY contest the upgrade of this climb. In keeping w/ the old-school, exploratory, adventurous nature of the McCall area, this is NOT 5.9. Its trickiness is largly due to the lichen on the lieback holds and most likely one's inexperiance climbing mungy wide cracks. Climb a Joshua Tree/Yosemite/Seneca/Needles/Vedawoo/or Red Rocks trad 5.9 and tell me this is not way easier. Sorry to disagree, but no-one asked me :)
EDIT: YEp, you are right...in the end the grade (especially when it figures in at a whoping 5.9) is meaningless and your height, strength, skill, the weather, and the rock condition determine the "real" grade. So, I agree, let's just have fun on it and appreciate it as a great (and challenging) beginner crack route in a rad little town in Idaho...
Added: 2003-08-08
