Hobbit Book - 5.7

Nice climb, we approached by climbing Crystal Meth on Drug dome

An alpine style climb for sure. The approach is tricky. Route finding is hard at times and navigating over the massive boulders can be hard at times. Once at the route though it is 100% worth it! The first pitch is mediocre with a cool exposed traverse, but the quality climbing doesn’t start until pitch two. It has some amazing crack climbing up to a hanging belay. The third pitch is the mental crux. I led this one and traversing out to the face is pretty intimidating. The climbing is not that hard here, though you have to run it out about 60 ft. A 120 ft fall was pretty daunting as I placed my next pro when I met up with the crack. My favorite pitch was the last one. It stayed in the crack and led across a surprisingly easy roof crack. The exposure there was unreal!

Some of the plates on the big runout can be protected so-so with thin long slings. The moves though are 5.7, it's all there if you take take your time and you certainly can find some good rest stops if you need them. On the low part of the route, don't go to the tree to the right as some people have due to misreading the route in the Falcon guide--stay in the crack.

Loved this climb, one of my first climbs I did. I was 14 at the time and I remember loving the big pancakes on the face, super fun to climb!

Did this with Gordon in preparation for our Teton trip. Excellent climbing!

Was gripped when starting the infamous .7R section, but got into the groove, took it one move at a time, & was at the dihedral (& pro') before I knew it. I think that finding the calm to get through a situation with potentially dangerous consequences for f%$&ing up is one of the most rewarding parts of climbing.

Anyway, a great climb with a good friend & awesome day! Going to the DOA campground later, with typical associated debauchery, was also a lot of fun :)