Routes : North America : United States : California : Bishop and Eastern Sierra : Palisades, The : Temple Crag : Moon Goddess Arete (IV) 5.8*
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Moon Goddess Arete (IV) 5.8* - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock (Trad)
1200
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Description:
Scramble out left on ledges from the left hand couloir to the edge fo the slabby buttress. wander up and left, then back up and right for a few hundred feet of moderate climbing to where the arete steepens and becomes more prominent. Climb a few pitches to an intimidating gendarme which is passed on the right by a steep 5.7 traverse to the notch behind it. Another pitch leads to the tall Ibrium Tower. Climb a 5.8 crack, then go up and right around the right edge of the tower to ledges which are followed further right to another crack. A pitch up this takes you to the top of the tower. From here the route follows the arete, rappels into a notch, and continues on for another four or five pitches (up to 5.8) to the talus slopes, turning most difficulties on the right. Go to the top.
Submitted by: jorgle on 2007-01-31
Last Modified: 2007-08-02
Views: 1675
Route ID: 43559
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13 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 13 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
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fun and worth doing. Was it a bit loose? sure, but that can be fun sometimes, too!
Getting up ibrium tower I climbed the far left side of it... whoops. 5.8 roof to a loooooose flake (5.8?) into a really awesome fingercrack in a dihedral. Fingercrack was probably hard 9, maybe 10a.... feet were kitty littering all over so that might have added to it. After finishing traversed back left and was ~20 feet h igher than was supposed to be on 3rd which meant some exciting 5th downclimbing to regain it.
A better idea would be to take my variation (5.9+ with 5.8R sections) to the splitter headwall, thus avoiding all the traversing and the silly pitches regaining it :))
Getting up ibrium tower I climbed the far left side of it... whoops. 5.8 roof to a loooooose flake (5.8?) into a really awesome fingercrack in a dihedral. Fingercrack was probably hard 9, maybe 10a.... feet were kitty littering all over so that might have added to it. After finishing traversed back left and was ~20 feet h igher than was supposed to be on 3rd which meant some exciting 5th downclimbing to regain it.
A better idea would be to take my variation (5.9+ with 5.8R sections) to the splitter headwall, thus avoiding all the traversing and the silly pitches regaining it :))
Added: 2011-08-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Awesome
This was great!
Car to car in 17 hours. Route was a bit loose and not sustained but has amazing exposure and great climbing! Can't wait to do sun ribbon
Car to car in 17 hours. Route was a bit loose and not sustained but has amazing exposure and great climbing! Can't wait to do sun ribbon
Added: 2011-07-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Temple Crag - Moon Goddess Arete
Awesome route - not as much ridge walking as on the other ones.
Added: 2008-07-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Very Nice Route
Simuled up to the traverse around the first tower. The rest is very fun. Linked a few pitches higher up. 5h to the summit.
Added: 2008-07-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Ascent Note
We had to bail off into the escape gulley around pitch 8 and climbed 4th/5th class to the top because of a late start. Supertopo calls this way 5.7. Although I'll be back someday for the full arete. Calling it a ascent nonetheless.
Added: 2007-06-22
