Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Phoenix Area : Camelback Mountain : Boulder Canyon : Three Star Nightmare
Three Star Nightmare - 5.8

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
11 bolts, 4 bolt/chain rap (2 ropes)
130
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Description:
This fairly recent, long 2-star route put up by Marty Karabin can be found at the left end of the right wall of boulder canyon following just to the left of some obvious black water streaks up 130' to top. Depart trail directly below up short slope to base of wall, then follow left angling granite cobble ramp up to its top. Route is hard to spot, but large eye bolt for belayer (wear a helmet) is just below and right of start at very top of ramp. Climb looks lame from directly beneath, but turns out to be very fun and cool up thru large granite blocks, chunks, and flakes. With an average of 12' between bolts, route can be hard to follow between hidden bolts. Just stay straight up, then a gradually arc to the left near top and into cave.Descent Options:
Requires a two rope rappel or there's an easy CL 3 walkoff.
Submitted by: fritzski on 2008-02-18
Views: 1521
Route ID: 45808
5 Ascents Recorded
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Safety Rating | G |
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great route!
killer pod cave with great views!
Added: 2010-02-18
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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REALLY FUN ROUTE!
I used to think the Monk was the best route on Camelback until I got on Marty's 3 Star Nightmare. AWESOME! Great views from the top too. A little crumbly but not terrible. Pretty well protected and nice cave for top belay. We di the walk off - better than carrying a second rope up for the rap.
Added: 2008-02-15
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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with Fritz
anchor is large body size cove 3 bolts
2 line rapp
2 line rapp
Added: 2006-12-22
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-03-04
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Much better climb than it looks from below. A totally different feel from other climbs at Camelback on large granite features. Very cool and adventurous climb for the grade.
Added: 2004-05-14