Rainy Day Women - 5.10a

Followed on this one, first pitch only. Popped off a couple of times early on the route.

This was my third route of the day and it was the most difficult. The climbing down low was quite slick and made it a bit interesting. The first two anchors head slightly right to the first belay. Be careful climbing around the white splotches, there is a lot of loose rock in these areas. I used the outside edges for finger holds and sometimes footholds. My partner slipped several times down low on this route but had little trouble up higher. From the first belay, head up and left to the single bolt. From there, go straight up to the belay. There is some interesting rock above the bolt. You will have to head into the splotches but there are many jugs and flakes for holds. When leaving the second belay, the next bolt is up to the right. It is lower than it appears in the guidbook. From there, follow the dark streak on excellent holds up to a ledge and head up past some flakes to the left and angle left towards the Mercury's Lead/Storm in a Teacup shared anchors. Finish to the top of the Arch or rap back down.

An amazing test of sticky rubber on tiny flakes and nubbins. Top roped it.

Top roped this after climbing The Great Arch.

Great edging on tiny crimps and ledges, although some are a bit crumbly. For most of the route I was able to find obvious edges to use (small) but there were a couple sections that were pure friction. Fun TR if you clip the bolts as directionals, otherwise there's a pretty long swing after a slip.

I might consider this if there were about 3 more bolts. There are 2 and the anchors and that first one is quite high. I don't see why nearly every route at Stone seems to have been bolted with the ethic that "if you don't face ground fall yet it isn't needed". Maybe you are supposed to climb in motorcycle leathers, or perhaps some chaps? As always, have fun - but don't fall!