Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Looking Glass Rock : North Face : Cornflake Crack
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Cornflake Crack - 5.11a popular
Average Rating : 4.91 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock
Trad, takes all sizes of gear up to #1 or 2 Camelot.
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Description:
One the raddest corners eh-vah! Thin and pumpy low lieback crux. Second pitch is the most extreme stemming this of Devil's Tower.
Submitted by: j_ung on 2003-12-31
Views: 3398
Route ID: 46433
14 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 14 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
about this time
The first ten feet is hard. Afterthat, a runout area--at least PG. The second pitch is more sustained, but without the hard move of the first wet pitch.
Added: 2012-09-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great variety
Hard earned onsight when wet. I had to down climb from the extremely wet underling at the start 4 times before saying oh well and just over gripping through the water. More seepage above, actually a lot for a "classic". While I thought it was good to have a slice if Yosemite style, that is all it was. If this is your bag you can get on ten pitches of this in a row all over the west that stay dry, so you better go there. I loved this route though and will do it again cuz I dont think it will ever feel easy. Get on this thing
Added: 2012-08-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
One Route to Rule Them All
Many stars...very G.
Added: 2011-10-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
wow.
this climb is amazing but it's kind of a joke that this gets .11a and safari jive gets .11c?both pitches are harder than safari jive, and much more continuous. clean follow, cleaning all gear, of camhead's lead.
Added: 2010-09-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Insanely Good.
This is one of the best 5.11 crack routes in the nation. Super varied face and crack, stemming, jamming, laying back, everything. Take lots of little gear for the first pitch a lots of mid-sized gear for the second.
There really should be some bolted anchors at the top of the second pitch, however. I know about the strict NC trad ethic and all, but it is ridiculous to keep killing the trees on the ledge this way.
PG13 for a section on pitch 1 where you have to cimb onto the slab and about 15 feet out from tiny gear. Not really PG13, but I would not call this a g-rated sew-up fest.
There really should be some bolted anchors at the top of the second pitch, however. I know about the strict NC trad ethic and all, but it is ridiculous to keep killing the trees on the ledge this way.
PG13 for a section on pitch 1 where you have to cimb onto the slab and about 15 feet out from tiny gear. Not really PG13, but I would not call this a g-rated sew-up fest.
Added: 2010-09-07
