Routes : North America : United States : Washington : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winter Spire : Direct East Buttress
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Direct East Buttress - 5.10d
Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
Medium Rack to 4"
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Description:
Excellent 10 pitch climb on clean, solid granite. The climb has little bit of everything. The bolt ladders go at 10d. The route is basically a small wall climb, it is dead vertical. Excellent climb.
Submitted by: crackjammer on 2004-03-02
Views: 2385
Route ID: 47960
8 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 8 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Fun route, but not for us
We waited for over three hours at the belay ledge (right before the 10d bolt ladder), while two dudes from Seatle (who had slept on the ledge) took over 3 hours to do this pitch (with their haul bag getting stuck numerous times). Finally passed that after they had done the pitch and fixed a rope for them on the next pitch. They were still on the route (2nd day) when we were back at the car that evening.
Added: 2010-06-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a A0 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fabulous Climb, good intro to Aid
Pitch 1: Solo Pitch 2: easy climbing 5.5/5.6 Pitch 3: really fun 5.9 corner and roof move! (linked with pitch 4, mostly) Pitch 5: AO bolt ladder (mostly good bolts but some sketchy ol' button heads) I recommend freeing the crack at the end of this pitch I think it goes at 5.10a, very fun. Pitch 6: 5.8 face (don't get off route, Scary!) into another bolt ladder. Pitch 7, 8, and 9: easy climbing, wondering, but fun
NOTES: Decent the S. Arite, can be tricky route finding, 1-3 raps. Approach can be confusing to, I just wanted to head straight up to it.
NOTES: Decent the S. Arite, can be tricky route finding, 1-3 raps. Approach can be confusing to, I just wanted to head straight up to it.
Added: 2008-10-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
great fun route
got my first 5.9 lead pitch in. followed and wallowed on the two hard (10d/11a). got to the top. First long day. Most enjoyable.
Added: 2008-09-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun day
Fun route. :)
Added: 2008-07-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
beckey route
Great route done with john
Added: 2008-04-02
