West Face - 5.11d popular

Lead the 1st and 3rd crux pitches and followed the other 2. Swapped leads with my girlfriend for an amazing day and a half. The 3rd crux 11c should definately be linked... just keep the gear a little spaced and have a 70... otherwise you'll be thinking bout belaying off the anchors (what?) in the middle of the hardest part of the whole climb. Don't do that... just clip em and keep grunting it out. The climbing is all you could ask for. Awesome 11b for the first two pitches gets you in the zone to cruise the rest. With a little endurance and mental strength you'll pull of the other 2 cruxes. The other 15 pitches are amazing... lotsa 5.10 moves and great exposure. the Cave on thanksgiving ledge pitch 15 is huge.... take off the harness and camp out in the best bivy the world has to offer. we hauled a mini bag which was hard in only a couple spots... well it made linking pitch 6 $ 7 interesting since the 50 m haul line i had made me carry the pig on my ass for the last 10 meters of that pitch... luckily the crux was done and i was in the sandybag 5.7. Well worth it though for the comforts and the much needed break from the overcrowded valley floor. 1st thing i did after getting back down to find my truck was broken into by a bear and getting that out of the impound was buy an 8.5mm 70m. oohh the good times!

Did 2xA0

first pitch run out 5.10 next several pitches 11 slab. If yu make it through these you are probably OK, however, there is a pitch high--16? that is definitely 10 R (or was 10 years ago). There is another section about pitch 12-15 that is fantastic overhanging 5.10 features with occasional pro.We were on the route 9 hours. really a fun route

A quality free route and it's on EC.
Partner led most of it.
Tends to be a little wet in early spring.

that's what she said...lots of quality climbing...sustained...a tiny bit sandbagged...full value.

onsighted the first two cruxes, then frenchied the upper two. humbling...in a good way!