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Blood Sugar Magic - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Bolts, But I am gonna trad lead it this summer
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

It runs the obvious weakness up the middle of the farthest wall on the south side (there is a specific name, I will come back with the name later). It is a flake system and body position and balance is key. It would be a 5.8 if the flake opened up on the other side, but this direction almost forces you to barn door on every move. Feet are super scarce throughout the crux, but the end is comfy if you can get there.

Submitted by: rokshoxbkr19 on 2004-03-25
Views: 1336
Route ID: 50462

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JAGWire on 2001-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice

Really hard move at 2nd bolt.

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: stoneclimber501 on 2007-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

sent....should not be bolts on this line very protectable with gear

Added: 2005-08-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: etrockerchik on 2005-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rokshoxbkr19 on 2004-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Nice Line. Finally went down clean. I am never getting on it again!

Witnessed by: dredsovrn
Added: 2004-06-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dredsovrn on 2004-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

My first .12 lead. This is a great climb. Way better climb than Copper Head Road.

Witnessed by: rokshoxbkr19
Added: 2004-06-02