Routes : North America : United States : Missouri : Central Missouri : Capen Park : Capen Park : Missouri Breaks
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Missouri Breaks - 5.10c
Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Toprope)
G
Top Rope
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Description:
This route is to the climber's right of Swingtime and Footloose, a Capen classic with a fun finish. Watch out for loose rock (hence the name). there are 3 popular variations to this route. the left route is a balance move to a big reach before the roof (dyno for the short people), the middle line with a balance move off the cave, and our personal favorite, the sloper & crimp start on the right. all 3 variations keep the route interesting
Submitted by: reprieve on 2008-12-12
Views: 1960
Route ID: 50877
Topo Images
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4 Ascents Recorded
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|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
If you climb the correct line.
If you climb the right route this route is really more of an 11 something. Id say b maybe. Its to the left of all that crappy loose rock. The reason the below recorded ascent was stating the route had crumbly rock IS BECAUSE NO ONE CLIMBS THAT SPOT meaning that it not the route right?........ right. LOL. Any ways This route is just to the right of swing time and foot loose as mentioned above and has a crux about 8 feet under where you top rope should be anchored at. Great route. huge reach to nothing but a nubbins. try bumping from the nubbins or just throwing the whole distance if your a monkey. many variations for the start but please, dont CLIMB ON LOOSE ROCK AND HURT SOMEONE...... ? doesnt make much sense.
Added: 2011-06-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
after the rain
the holds starting the overhang get wet and rather muddy. sweet climb though. we did a slightly harder variation today so it was pretty good.
Added: 2008-04-06
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Ascent Note
This didn't feel much harder than the book (5.9) It's an interesting climb, and by interesting I mean I won't voluntarily be climbing it again on account of all the damn loose rock. I had two holds come off in my hand on my first attempt, lucky my belayer was off to the side.
Witnessed by: JA Johnmeyer
Added: 2005-05-18
Added: 2005-05-18
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2002-09-14
