Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Moores Wall : The North End : Nutsweat
Previous
Nutsweat - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock (Trad)
G
2
Traditional
100
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Great 2 pitch route near Shadow Dance. Funky crux. Can be done in one pitch w/ two ropes to rap. (Can actually rap with one 60 meter rope if you're careful: have the first person down single rope rap. The second can then rap with the rope doubled and have the person on the ground pull them up to higher ground)
Submitted by: csproul on 2008-09-27
Views: 1810
Route ID: 50940
12 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 12 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
One year later to the day...
...came back for the lead. Had followed it once more in the meantime. Kinda crucial to have something like a green Alien/red or yellow C3 size for the first crux. Solid placement but that's all you've got more or less for that move.
Didn't notice the slight runout over loose rock mid-route the first time quite so much as I did when on lead. Thankfully it's over easy stuff and you get some good pieces before the upper crux begins. Can get a couple pieces in the better rock in the cracks on the face right of the arete, slightly off-route.
Awesome to have #2 and #3 C4s to slam home just after the upper crux and along the traverse. A killer nut placement at the end of the traverse seals the deal and puts you good stead for the jug haul mega-roof action.
This time round I found the right holds and got my sequences right so I think the grade is probably pretty reasonable provided you don't dally and get pumped out. Kinda scary in some spots but it's all there.
Fantastic route and one of the best at Moore's from those I've done, but that steel cable around the chickenhead makes me cringe and laugh at the same time. Thankfully it's only PART of the rap anchor. (the chickenhead head it looks like something I'd test carefully before committing body weight on lead...) I GUESS it's solid... welcome to Moore's.
Didn't notice the slight runout over loose rock mid-route the first time quite so much as I did when on lead. Thankfully it's over easy stuff and you get some good pieces before the upper crux begins. Can get a couple pieces in the better rock in the cracks on the face right of the arete, slightly off-route.
Awesome to have #2 and #3 C4s to slam home just after the upper crux and along the traverse. A killer nut placement at the end of the traverse seals the deal and puts you good stead for the jug haul mega-roof action.
This time round I found the right holds and got my sequences right so I think the grade is probably pretty reasonable provided you don't dally and get pumped out. Kinda scary in some spots but it's all there.
Fantastic route and one of the best at Moore's from those I've done, but that steel cable around the chickenhead makes me cringe and laugh at the same time. Thankfully it's only PART of the rap anchor. (the chickenhead head it looks like something I'd test carefully before committing body weight on lead...) I GUESS it's solid... welcome to Moore's.
Added: 2011-10-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by:
.
.
Added: 2011-10-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Sweaty Nuts For Sure!
I felt like I was a beaching whale...well, before the first...second...third whippers. Hah. No style points for the overhang though. Must do again.
Added: 2011-02-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
A must do
I think this is about as good as 5.9 gets. Bring big stuff for up top.
Added: 2010-11-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
Airy, a little scary, and just a little bit hairy.
Upper section gets your attention for sure :) Thin feet and an airy traverse into a crazy spacey jugged out roof!
First crux was sort of surprising, down low. Parts of this route could be scarier for the 2nd than the leader, in particular the potential pendulum from this first crux.
Might like to follow it again before I try the lead...
Single 70m gets you down - not sure if a 60 would though.
First crux was sort of surprising, down low. Parts of this route could be scarier for the 2nd than the leader, in particular the potential pendulum from this first crux.
Might like to follow it again before I try the lead...
Single 70m gets you down - not sure if a 60 would though.
Added: 2010-10-09
