Casablanca - 5.9

Route sequence (left to right): 446
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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G
5.8G / 5.6+ PG. #1, #3 camalot helpful.
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Description:
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1973 A wild crux roof. Wander up the face 30 feet right of the Casa Emilio corner (5.6+) passing two old pins. Clip and back up a third pin at an obvious flake in the roof. This is it - pull the roof. (Height-dependent 5.8; crimpy or slopey intermediate holds exist if you can't technique up to the thank-god jug.) Rap to the ground (only single rope needed) or the second pitch goes at 5.6. Thanks to the Swain guidebook for portions of this description.
Submitted by: feedmerocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2012-10-22
Views: 707
Route ID: 52675
7 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 7 ascent notes
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Safety Rating | G |
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cool moves over creaky flakes
don't put your gear in them...
Added: 2009-04-27
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Safety Rating | G |
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one hard move
up over the roof, and you can rest before, all the rest is pretty easy.
Added: 2008-10-13
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Casablanca
A very goopd route with fun moves. I'm 5'5" and didn't think that the roof was height related at all, certainly not the 5.9 that some books call it. Don't say you did the route if you skipped the second pitch...
Added: 2007-06-24
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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ascent note
Followed the first pitch, definitely hight dependent, but if you get your left foot up in the crack between two flakes, it’s not too reachy. Lead the second pitch, but don't know why it was recommended, did not really like it, the only good thing about it was the view at the belay...
Added: 2007-05-08
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-10-09