Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Boulder Area : Eldorado Canyon : Redgarden Wall : Psycho Pigeon
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Psycho Pigeon - 5.11b
Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
Mostly small gear and several bolts.
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Description:
Safer since many of the bolts have been replaced, this is a worthwhile outing that sees little traffic. P1 Begin in the less obvious crack in the bulge left of Mellow Yellow (or begin in the dihedral and traverse L after ~30 ft ) and go up about 50ft to a fixed belay on the arete. P2 Head up the 5.8 S arete to the first bolt then shoot right on a good, but blind, hold that heads you towards the next two bolts. Two more bolts protect the difficulties (.11a/b) on this pitch as it heads up the arete. Go slightly higher to belay on the arete as per Yellow Spur. P3 Start up Yellow Spur for the first two pins then angle up and left achross a lichen covered face towards two bolts (.10d/.11a S), continue straight up past the fixed pin on the Robbins Traverse and belay on a good ledge about 4' below another pin and L of the arete. P4 Head to the bolt on the clean face about 25' L of the arete. Clip this and angle up and right to an thin crack (below the arete) thatangles up and left (.10c). Belay on the arete near the tree.
Submitted by: verticalturtle on 2004-06-26
Views: 1036
Route ID: 54957
2 Ascents Recorded
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Onsight ascent by:
Full adventure
The lack of traffic and chalk on this route makes it feel like the old days before the canyon was overrun with climbers. The climbing is always interesting and sometimes quite exciting. The most memorable pitch for me was the one just to the left of the pin ladder on Yellow Spur--I remember fiddling in questionable gear and feeling like I was in a very unique position. Very cool.
Added: 2007-04-26
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-07-19
