Center Route - 5.9

This route will give you the full climbing experience. A must do.

One day I decided to free solo this to the crux, and then down solo. My buddy took pictures. Eight years later I visited an old woman friend in Germany and saw a picture of my free solo on her refrigerator. I had not only forgotten about sending the photo,but also forgot about the climb.

This is a really fantastic climb. The approach kind of sucks but it keeps the crowds away. The climbing is very sustained but a lot of fun. It always felt a little desperate. If someone told me it was 5.10d I wouldn't have been surprised because I've onsighted climbs many grades harder that actually felt easier. That being said I think there are a few moves that might be harder than 5.9 but the climb is so sustained and pure crack climbing that it feels significantly harder. I would say this is a good crack climb for someone trying to break into 5.10's. Better have solid jams or it will eat your hands.

I skipped the 5.11 bolt latter on the last 30 feet, but fun route nonetheless, and great views.

This ties with Eldorado Canyon's "The Green Spur" as my all-time favorite 5.9 climb. Fantastic line, the sort that novice 5.9 leaders don't often get to climb.

If you're breaking into 5.9, this climb alone is worth a trip to Colorado and the South Platte. It was my first 5.9 lead, and my first real crack climb of any sort--bomber pro all the way up, and it'll teach you that you really DON'T need holds after all. Felt more like 5.8 to me--not strenuous at all.