On The Lamb - 5.9

perfect crack splitting the dome in a perfect horizontal. One of the beset climbs I've done in Yosemite. Mostly easy with an endurance crux of ~30-40 ft where the feet disappear.

We soloed up to the ledge which we had no trouble locating. Saw somewhere on the web where folks were confused...which confuses me on how they could be. Very straight forward. The first pitch is just a traverse right to find a short vertical crack which gets to the horizontal. The first of two pitches that cover the main horizontal is mellow. Look for the fixed station down a few meters that divides them up. I led the 5.9 crux pitch (3rd roped pitch) The blank feet section is around a blind corner. It is about 40'. A .75 was solid pro at the arete you turn to have full view. Then I just hand-railed it over to my next rest which is what I recommend, keep your arms straight and you will not get pumped. Easier than it looks. We finished on Jailbreak which was worthy. A 2 pitch 5.9 sport climb. The 2nd pitch is the crux and offers neat exposure, and well bolted after you reach the first bolt off the belay. Walk down the back side by angling right.

had to hang on a long time through the crux to protect my complaining second, who had already bailed on leading that pitch.

If you have the gear, probably better to build a belay just up and right of the bolts at a nice stance. After the crux, don't stop in the corner to belay, go another 25 ft. to where the vertical crack intersects.

Sideways jug slingin' for a couple hundred feet. Soft for 5.9.

Incredible route the likes of which you will rarely see! Had to hang trying to protect my second (my dad) through the crux; put four pieces in while trying to stay on. Definitely just gun it until decent footholds appear, it isn't bad. Watch out for windy conditions even on what may seem like a warm day.