Routes : North America : United States : Wyoming : Western Wy. : Grand Teton NP : Disappointment Peak : Irenes Arete
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Irenes Arete - 5.8
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Description:
Amazing climb; sustained at the grade, awesome exposure, perfect rock, and varied climbing. One of the best alpine routes I've done. The approach is long, but you can easily do the route car to car in a day. Some exposed fourth class gets you up to the base of the arete. We linked the first two pitches with a 70m rope. The route stays near the arete the entire way. Once on top just head West to the second gully on the left. One 50 foot rappel and the rest is easy scrambling back to the base.
Submitted by: pt on 2004-09-29
Views: 1947
Route ID: 59323
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15 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 15 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Awesome Ridge
This is a great ridge climb that actually stays pretty close to the crest. We did some of the 5.9 variations and they're a lot of fun although they felt a little harder than 5.9. We both agreed that this is probably the best long moderate we'd ever done. If it was easily accessible it'd be more popular than the Bastille Crack in my opinion.
The summit of Dissapointment is an added bonus. The views are awesome. Saw a team on the Red Sentinel which also looks like a cool little tower. Hard work getting there though.
The descent is hard to find, sketchy, and loose. There are several rappels near the end but getting too them involves some steep scree scrambling near steep drops. We didn't rope up but it might not have been a bad idea.
The summit of Dissapointment is an added bonus. The views are awesome. Saw a team on the Red Sentinel which also looks like a cool little tower. Hard work getting there though.
The descent is hard to find, sketchy, and loose. There are several rappels near the end but getting too them involves some steep scree scrambling near steep drops. We didn't rope up but it might not have been a bad idea.
Added: 2009-09-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Irenes arete
Followed julia up this awesome route. We did two pitches with a 5.9 variation. This climb is amazing. Perhaps the best!
Added: 2009-08-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Irenes Arete
One of the sickest climbs Ive ever done. Climbed with Liz, she took the odd pitches, I took the evens. So sustained at 5.8 - loved it.
Added: 2008-08-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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SW Gully descent was the sketchiest part of the climb but we were camped at the Meadows so it seemed the most reasonable. Nevertheless, I would probably opt for a different option next time.
Added: 2008-08-21
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
great line and exposure
do the direct variation at the top. 5.10 but well protected
Added: 2008-08-03
