Routes : North America : United States : New York : Adirondack park : Wallface : Mental Blocks Buttress : Rubicon
PreviousRubicon - 5.10c
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Description:
Just to the left of Mental Blaocks is another excellent adventure.It consists mainly of variations of the former route.Start about 100'left of Mental Blocks.At the top of a scramble, look for a shallow,brushy corner with good climbing potential on the right wall. 1- climb the low angled right wall of the corner to cedar ledges, then up a short handcrack to a haedwall and large flake. set up for the next pitch by traversing down to the right to a semi-hanging belayunder a roof crack.5.7 2-the roof crack 5.9 is followed by a flaring groove and an excellent airy belay ledge.50' 3-Climb a right facing corner, emerging right at its top.here is a short finger crack of pitch 4Mental Blocks. climb out left and up past a bolt to a ramp belay(this 5.10 face move safe but exhilerating) 4-from the alcove at the top of the ramp,climb an overhanging handcrack/corner to gain the summit chimneys.5.8 165'
Submitted by: climb512 on 2001-12-17
Views: 1226
Route ID: 5955
Most Recent Photo
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1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Ascent Note
I find a real stretch to give this route a 5.10c rating. I found the crux pitch to be no harder than 5.9+. Only, because of the fall potential. Yes, the crux pitch is exhilarating and if there was a bolt right at the crux move, it would be 5.9. Why didn't Don place another bolt? It could easily have been done on lead.
Added: 2004-07-01
