Southeast Face - 5.7

Beautiful fall day at beacon. Make sure you start early, this route can get busy at some times with multiple parties.
Crux is the 3rd pitch right of the bat, which is also the money pitch. Great angle and exposure, great rock quality on the slab.
Did the off-width variation on pitch 5, well worth it! I liked having a 4 friend size piece, but not necessary. This rock sucks up nuts beautifully and bomber, smaller alien size and metolius are handy as well.
Enjoy it! 3 stars from me.

Good route for practicing nut craft, wanders a bit so use a long draws off your pro. Only cam I placed was a #2 at the pull onto the snag ledge, the rest was stoppers.

This is a very popular route (we climbed on a Friday and were the 2nd of 5 parties to climb all or part of this route). The "company" was helpful though for our first time up this route, as it provided for some valuable "live beta" from the "veterans."

I've read in some guide books that the published ratings for Beacon Rock are a bit "stiff" and I would agree here. At least for a personal first ascent, consider adding a notch to any of the published ratings (i.e. the first pitch felt more like 5.7, the third pitch felt more like 5.8 or even higher if you choose the wrong path to get over the bulge at the start, the fourth through sixth pitches all have some moves that could argueably go for 5.6 - 5.7, etc.)

Expect to commit a FULL day to this climb due to length, crowds and for a first time ascent, route finding.

* Tip - It may be useful to bring radios, or at a minimum discuss rope commands, as there are a few pitches where you will lose sight of your partner and the noise from wind, trains, etc., can make it very difficult to communicate.

windy

Great route, highly recommended for first ascents of Beacon Rock. Crux is accurately described in Portland Rock Climbing guide book, but route finishes with roughly 2 pitches of low 5th class rock. Total pitches 7 rather than 5 as described.