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Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : Hogsback : Harvey's Wallbangers, Center

Harvey's Wallbangers, Center - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.43/5
  Scenery 3.43/5
  Fun Factor 3.57/5

Description:

The center of three vertical cracks on the right end of hogsback, just to the left of Harvey's Wallbangers, Right. Mostly 5.4 moves with a short 5.6 fingers crux. At the top, climb a 5.7 mantel (fun!) or make an easy face traverse right (set a directional for your second, or make him/her do the mantel). Can be done in 2 or 3 pitches, with several good belay options.

Submitted by: comet on 2005-06-25
Views: 2228
Route ID: 67599

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17 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

Good route. The start entails a fairly exposed scramble - pass deception and look for the obvious large tree up and to the right. That's the start for Harvey's right, and a short traverse 20' left is the center start.

Some belay options but nicest spot seemed to be an obvious ledge with a hight piton. Just below that are some sketchy loose blocks on the right, and then at the belay there's a center block in the crack that entices you to sling or place pro next to, but it's also quite loose. A #3 or #4 can go next to the piton.

Added: 2015-05-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: justinjohnsen on 2012-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

Flash led P1, followed Tim C. on P2. Exited via the fun 5.7 mantel finish.

Added: 2012-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2010-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun route

Bria led the first pitch of this - her 2nd lead ever. She did the first pitch super long (full 60m) and had a semi-decent belay stance just under the first roof. I think belaying lower down near the piton would have been easier, but this worked. The 2nd pitch was confusing on which way the "official" route goes, but wandering up over some of the small roofs, on some dikes, some traverses, and a mantel all made for good fun. A couple small trees up top to belay from (don't rely on just the trees)

Added: 2010-06-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: retro67 on 2009-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Solo

Fun moves up high. didn't have the nerve to do the topout mantel solo. Went right out on face.

Added: 2009-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bob_54b on 2008-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice route

this is a fun route. protects well and is steeper than Deception. be sure to do the 5.7 mantel and the interesting final overhang at the very top: well protected and fun moves.

Added: 2008-08-28

... Read all 17 ascent notes