Skip to Content

The diagonal - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
G
excellent
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.71/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.86/5
  Fun Factor 4.43/5

Description:

after a scramble up to the base of the ramp, climbing the ramp in two pitches is very straightforward. ramp ends at 2 bolts (which form part of the rappel descent) traverse to a ledge, set up anchor and belay past what is described as a 'bouldering move' to a chimmey leading to the final belay ledge. the last pitch is the best pitch on this climb. riddled with old pins, climb the right facing corner where the pro is excellent. the pins will lead you to climb out towards the arrete, but i opted to place my own piece and stay in the corner, where some good stemming moves could be had. the rappel from the top lead back down to the grassy ledge, then down from the 2 bolts, to a tree on gourmet ledge (put knots in your rope!) and down twice more to the deck. take care to place any packs/items in an obvious place to cut down on recovery time prior to hiking out of the talus. enjoy!

Submitted by: smearer on 2007-09-30
Views: 2280
Route ID: 68245

Most Recent Photo

8 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forester11 on 2009-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars awsome

First big wall ascent

Added: 2009-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: deadpoint on 2009-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wallface - Diagonal

Skinny and I swapped pitches, I did 1,3,5,7 and Skinny the others. Finally after 2+ years of getting rained out, 13.5 hours round trip!

Added: 2009-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barkandbite on 2008-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

w/eb

Added: 2009-02-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jgloporto on 2007-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars None

Awesome!

Added: 2007-10-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jrathfon on 2007-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice long day. 11pm to 2am

The last pitch made the climb, the 4th/5th class first pitches with slick grass were the crux. You can do 4 rappels straight from the top (2 sets of bolts, and 2 trees), you don't have to rappel the ramp. The 2 ramp pitches of 5.3 can be done with one rope stretching 60 meter pitch. The 5.4 pitch can be rope stretched to 60 meter's to the second set of bolts (above the first set on the grassy ledges), makes the 4th class a trail. Pitons lead the way through the last 2 pitches. We bushwacked from the summit rock.... mistake, took the climbers trail out. Has reflective markers and lots of small cairns. Adds about 1.5 miles if you're coming from the ADK Loj. The Loj parking was full, so we had to park a mile down the road making for an ~15 mile day with 6 pitches of climbing and 4 full length 60 M rappels. A few parties on the route held us up for a few minutes. The pitons on the last pitch lead out twice to the arete, makes the route super exposed and alot of fun, keeps you out of the off-width. The off-width is nice too, easy laybacking or arm-baring.

Woo!

Added: 2007-09-04

... Read all 8 ascent notes