Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Portland Metro Area : Broughton Bluff : North Face : Gandalf
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Gandalf - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.11 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Rock
Multi-Pitch Pro to 3 1/2" TCU's or small wire suggested
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Description:
Commence up steep ground to the right of the alcove. A vertical crack climbing leads to a precarious stance on small ledges then move up left(bolts) via sloping insecure smears(5.9+) to Gollum's Hang. Surmount the crux(fixed piton) and belay. The second pitch continues up a crack corner through two small overhangs (5.8) then angles up right to a belay on a small ledge. Above is an obvious wide crack. Climb this to the top and walk off, or rappel from her to previous anchor.
Submitted by: nikegirl on 2006-10-02
Views: 2199
Route ID: 6902
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16 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 16 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
GG
Enjoyable and technical for the grade. Enjoyable day in the sunshine
Added: 2016-04-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
One of the most fun routes at Broughton.
This route will make you question the grade but never will you question choosing to do this route. Superb!
Added: 2012-02-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Gandalf's Grip: Round 3
Finally send. I'd add a letter grade to the difficulty because I couldn't feel my fingers at all the rock was so cold. Had to look at my hands to make sure they were on the holds. I led p1 Toby took p2
Added: 2011-04-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Gandalf's Grip: Round 2
Climbed with Scott. Led both pitches - fell again at the crux. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice . . . .
Added: 2011-02-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Gandalf's Grip
Michael led p1, I took p2. Slipped off following on the mantle move at the end of p1 - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Super high-quality route. Gotta go get it clean.
Added: 2011-01-27
