Earth Angel Spire - 5.10a

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With Matt K from Houston. Great quiet setting at the back of Mormon Canyon. I led all the pitches. The 2nd pitch is surprisingly dirty. Reminds me of Fisher Towers and some of my FA's at home (Snow Canyon State Park). I took two C4 4's, a 5 and 6 and appreciated them. I prefered to utilize OW skills myself up the strenous 3rd pitch. 4th pitch uneventful and 5th pitch not near as bad as some make it out to be on MP. Very straight forward, protects well without depending on suspect bolt. The run out portion is just 5th class on huge jugs. Serious Poison Ivy patch at the end of the raps, biggest crux of the day.

1st and 5th Pitch are run out. P1 is equally scary for the leader and follower, P5 really just scary for the leader. I'd say the run out section on p1 is 5.easy , and 5.7/8 on p5. Lots of great pitches, I'd highly recommend this route.

Rack: Single purple TCU, doubles yellow TCU - 2 Camalot. Single 3, 4, and 5 (new sizes). I was pretty happy with that. A 6 would have been nice, but walking the 5 worked. Just have to find the sweet spot where it is pretty tipped out, put a sling on it and pray that it doesn't walk (and you don't fall!). Once you are past it the climbing mellows out a lot.

Incredible day climbing with Catherine!! BETA: Awesome location and outstanding summit. Views are spectacular with distant ampitheaters and whirling Peregrines on the winds. This aint the Mace! Hike about 45-60 min up the boulder wash and the spire will come into view ( cant see the formation from the parking area), on the right. When directly east of the spire the boulder wash spilts.. take the right fork approx. 200 feet and look for carins taking you up a steep rock drainage.. stay mostlly in this, headed straight for the climb ( except for a rock waterfall about 30' high, which is skirted on the right). As you get up to the spire you will be on the south side,,, continue up for 5-10 min.s and you will see a sloping ledge.. this you will go up from the right side to start P1. P1 > from the left side of the ledge go up a short crack ( 15' ) and then up a lichen face ( not much pro ) till a rotten knotted sling lets you know you are on route. Traverse left and go up sandy poorly protected slab and bulges till at base of a chimney; with a nice ledge ( interesting pro ). ( 5.9 ) heady. Belays are not bolted. P2 > Up the sandy, friable chimney for approx. 180' you will a tree with escape sling and rap rings. This is the belay for the start of P3. Did I say sandy... yeah. ( 5.8 ). P3 > Now the quality begins!! Look up from the tree and be impressed with the overhanging offwidth. Yeah stem, chimney, jam, face climb your way up. You can see a bolt from the tree belay, which is one of the cruxs of the route. Clip the solid bolt and make the move ( be creative ). Continue to the top of the offwidth ( stem and face holds ). A good belay is just off to the right in a wide pod at the base of a super hand/finger crack ( p4 ). ( 5.10a) A touch harder than the Mace or Dr. Rubos. P4 > Up the quality crack to the top of the pillar, approx 100'. Great pro. and a great belay ledge. (5.9 +). P5> From the ledge do not go straight up... go up about 10 feet and traverse on slab right for approx. 15' and you will see a sandy crack..head up this..flarry pods and sandy.. past a questionable bolt and a great piton ( last of the pro ). Head up sandy steep run out sandstone,, head right to chickenheads (5.6) to a huge ledge with a tree for belay. (5.10a),, heady lead. P6 > From behind the tree head up the left side of the short pillar and left behind the small tree to the north side of the spire... up a 5.6 fun face for approx. 40' to the summit. The rap chains are on the far side. Pro. doubles to 3" and a 4.5 and 5 B.D. Raps. 1 > off the top (east) and down to a big ledge approx 150' to rap bolts. 2 > down to another large ledge and two rap bolts; approx. 180'. 3 > down to large ledge with rap bolts off to the left ( watch cactus patch) approx 150'. 4 > 80' down to poison ivy patch at the base. Walk out.. when walking out ( day or night heh heh ) look for the barb wire in the wash to show you that the parking lot is above!! ( thanks Catherine!!) I give it an R rating for the first and the fifth pitches... some serious climbing.