Routes : North America : United States : California : San Francisco Bay : Mt. Diablo : Boy Scout Rocks - Lower Tier : Amazing Face
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Amazing Face - 5.9 popular
Average Rating : 3.90 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (80)
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Rock
G
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Bolts on top for top rope, or can be sport climbed.
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Description:
great 5.10, perfect lead if you can stand 6 feet bethween bolts.Not an hard 5.10 if you do it several times, but no way 5.9 as the guide book says. Probably the guide referred to an easier slab to the left. Some very crimpy holds toward the top. Good footwork is a necessity. 5.9+ or easy 5.10.
Submitted by: clmbnv4love on 2006-07-06
Views: 5052
Route ID: 7635
Most Recent Photos (See all 8 photos)
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80 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 80 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Lead climb
Only did this route. Had a severely sprained ankle, seemed a little stiff for this grade as crux was reach dependent and required some good footwork. Prob worth UK grade 6a or 6a+ which is 5.10b ish.
May be different at full fitness but small crimps and fine footwork seemd too hard for 5.9
It is also worth pointing out to all others in this forum that a popular route mentioned in a 10 year old guidebook will be significantly different tofay than it was when first climbed or bolted. Sandstone climbs always change their character over time due to type of rock.
Popular routes in the UK are updated over the years as they become polished, shed holds or the holds deteriorate.
Bear this in mind when comparing actual grade to grade in guidebook.
Check the published date.
That said - I only did one climb !!
P.S I climbed 5.11d indoors at Berkeley so do have something to base my opinion on.
May be different at full fitness but small crimps and fine footwork seemd too hard for 5.9
It is also worth pointing out to all others in this forum that a popular route mentioned in a 10 year old guidebook will be significantly different tofay than it was when first climbed or bolted. Sandstone climbs always change their character over time due to type of rock.
Popular routes in the UK are updated over the years as they become polished, shed holds or the holds deteriorate.
Bear this in mind when comparing actual grade to grade in guidebook.
Check the published date.
That said - I only did one climb !!
P.S I climbed 5.11d indoors at Berkeley so do have something to base my opinion on.
Added: 2012-05-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
first sport lead
great route. well protected, and there's always a good crimp within at least an arm's length. careful footwork is a must.
Added: 2010-05-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
Jeffers morning!
good climb
Added: 2009-09-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Sustained - fun
There are 11 bolts, about 7 feet apart. Probably one or two 10a moves, the rest is sustained 9. A couple of crimps and a couple jugs. The rest is about feet. Super fun route!
Added: 2009-08-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Amazing Face
It’s a typical mental challenge. You really have to focus on your feet. And definitely a 5.10a. NOT a 5.9. The holds doesn’t look very save. Some of them you can even turn around. You need exactly 10 quickdraws
Added: 2009-08-10
