Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Southern Oregon : Deer Leap : Deer Leap : Deer Leap
Deer Leap - 5.9
Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
Bolts. Take nuts, wrench, and hangers, as they were not left on the bolts by the FA party.
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Description:
1st pitch is 5.7, and potentially dangerous for the belayer, due to rockfall. Single bolt belay, unless it's been updated. Pitches 2 and 3 are gen. hard 5.8, with a 5.9 crux section. Rope drag is supposedly a real issue. Stunning exposure.
Submitted by: sawtooth_ridge on 2006-06-07
Views: 668
Route ID: 77303
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
There are hangers on this route
There are hangers on all bolts except the end belay bolts placed next tot he radio shed on the summit.
A short section of aid was placed through a steep chossy wall which takes you out of the chimney and onto the main wall. The aid section was made on 1/4 inch bolts that were placed quickly. In hind sight, aiding out off the chimney sooner would have kept us on solid rock, but would have required a longer section of aid. Moveing quickly through the first pitch is advisable to reduce your exposure to rock fall. Once ontop of the fist pitch the exposure to rock fall was greatly reduced. Bolts on the remainder of the route were stainless steel 3-3/4 in Fixe double expansion. Once on the main wall the rock quality is good with columnar structure. The climb was made in FOUR (not three) ~150-foot pitches. There is a good view of Deer Leap from the Toketee School House. An increadible climb. If it wasn't for the exposure to rock fall on the first pitch I would give this route a *****.
A short section of aid was placed through a steep chossy wall which takes you out of the chimney and onto the main wall. The aid section was made on 1/4 inch bolts that were placed quickly. In hind sight, aiding out off the chimney sooner would have kept us on solid rock, but would have required a longer section of aid. Moveing quickly through the first pitch is advisable to reduce your exposure to rock fall. Once ontop of the fist pitch the exposure to rock fall was greatly reduced. Bolts on the remainder of the route were stainless steel 3-3/4 in Fixe double expansion. Once on the main wall the rock quality is good with columnar structure. The climb was made in FOUR (not three) ~150-foot pitches. There is a good view of Deer Leap from the Toketee School House. An increadible climb. If it wasn't for the exposure to rock fall on the first pitch I would give this route a *****.
Added: 2009-05-12
