Routes : North America : United States : New York : Adirondack park : Keene Valley : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress

Empress - 5.5 popular

Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Virtually no protection and the climb is akin to a solo.

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.6
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

This and Regular Route see most of the traffic. 1-climb the corner with good protection to its top and belay at a good crack 5.3 140'. 2-continue in the right facing corner system for 2 pitches of easier climbing to reach the Hummock belay of pitch 4. Most parties however, head diagonally right accross a low angled section to a belay at the base of a huge, arching, left facing corner. 3-head across left on smooth rock, gaining a rolling ledge system comprised of 3 rock hommocks. these can be reached directly from the 1st pitch with a 165' rope. 4-a short pitch leads across to gain the highest of the ledges,directly under the wide crack high above. 5- this is an excellent friction/face pitch.the best line offers no protection. a safer line heads off left a bit and finds protection in a hidden corner before getting back onto the blank slab. belay at the birch ledge 5.5 150' 6-climb the off-sized crack on the buttress to its top,belay here,or step out right onto a foothold and make a continuous,exposed run-out to a cramped belay 5.5 150' 7-the going gets steadily easier toward the crest(resist the temptation to go for the top from the shelf belay atop the off sized crack its about 190' with no anchor). Variation Greensleeves-5.6 300'(s) From the birch belay of pitch 5 climb across right and gain a 2 pitch right facing corner.

Submitted by: climb512 on 2001-12-23
Views: 2648
Route ID: 7741

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