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Southwest Ridge - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
Some good some bad, many 20-30ft runouts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Longest route in the sandias? Over 1300 vertical feet. Rock quality overall good, although its has its fair share of loose blocks, and crumbly rock. 9-11 roped pitches with three 4th class scrambles mixed in between. Approach from the saddle between the north crest trail and the needle at the high point in the limestone band. Scramble down on ledges to the steep hike down to the low point inthe saddle. From here bushwack south down the gully between the hidden wall and the east face of the needle. Descent is steep, loose, overgrown, technical and long. Bring a machete. A few cairns are scattered about, but for the most part pick your own path following the path of least resistance. Once down near the southeast ridge cut across and find your way to the southwest ridge. To descend from the summit, follow a path back to the saddle and make 3-4 raps off various trees. Raps will deposit you back at the upper end of the gully you originally descended. Hike back up and out the same way you came in. Car to car time 12-14 hours, dont underestimate this climb.

Submitted by: berkly on 2006-08-21
Views: 1676
Route ID: 79128

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4 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: grippedclimber on 2006-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

classic Dias route! What a trip. Ate mushrooms on top and took another trip.... Loose rock? What loose rock?

Added: 2007-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: amason on 2006-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

wont climb this choss night mare . Did 5.9+ variation remember catecing a bowling ball . WE NEED a glacier for this crag

Witnessed by: p fresh
Added: 2006-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leinosaur on 2006-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

mine and berkly's longest climb by 2X. much work, much fun . . . couldn't ask for more out of a NM trip. muy memorable!

Witnessed by: berkly
Added: 2006-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2006-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Spectacular mountain on the sandia ridge. Brutal approach, bushwacking, thorns, steep loose gullies, long... The climb itself is fun although discontinuous with sections of 4th class scrambling. Overall 1300 vertical feet with many 5.8 sections, the last crux being the most exposed/fun.

Added: 2006-08-18