Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : South Face : Bewilderbeast 11d(?)

Bewilderbeast 11d(?) - 5.11d

Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)

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First Ascent:

Aidan Maguire

Type of Climb:

Rock (Trad)

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

9 Bolts (?) and a slung knob with second optional slung knob, plus anchor

Length (ft):

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

Spring 2007. Tr'd once to affirm viability and acertain bolt placement. Lead on first attempt. Beautiful, clean, high friction rock that was never climbed because the route doesn't reach the ground! Start up BoB until 3rd bolt is about head high. Traverse left on delicate moves about 10 feet (11c?). Head straight up cool moves past knobs. Crux starts when leaving the huge knob and the next 10 feet or so (11d?), but remains tricky after that (10+). At top a tricky very insecure move (11c?) gains the arete and then follow to the top. One can bail left to finish up Gallows Pole which is easier (but that defeats the purpose). Easy to set Tr from end of first pitch of Hardings Chimney with 60m.

Submitted by: ultraviolet on 2007-04-19
Last Modified: 2012-01-19
Views: 1094
Route ID: 85180

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