Routes : North America : United States : California : Los Angeles County : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Waiting for guntes
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Waiting for guntes - 5.13a popular
Average Rating : 4.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 55
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Michael Reardon
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
five bolts to open and closed shuts.
30
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Description:
Start in the cave, working your way to the direct start of blockbuster. stay off the arete following a sequence of two finger pockets and jugs, finishing on the crux of blockbuster. This route was indeed first done by Michael Reardon
Submitted by: medicfung on 2007-11-09
Last Modified: 2013-01-06
Views: 2625
Route ID: 90578
5 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | X |
Solo ascent by:
Lots of "hidden beta" (Very height dependent)
Found some more beta that made the crux of "new release" a bit easier (the upper section of this climb). Also seemed to flow a lot better when I didn't have to stop to clip...
Added: 2010-09-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Red Point ascent by:
Long route for the area
This route was the most fun of any so far. Is it a boulder problem? Is it a sport route? Kind of both. Cool thing is that the crux is a traverse that's essentially on the ground, so I was able to work it solo for awhile, then I roped up and bagged the route first try! Highly recommended...
(Note: Really not sure how to grade it. This route is very beta intensive, and probably very height dependant (I'm tall). Once you figure it out, there isn't any move on here harder than V3, but the pump factor is HUGE. Either way, it seemed soft.)
(Note: Really not sure how to grade it. This route is very beta intensive, and probably very height dependant (I'm tall). Once you figure it out, there isn't any move on here harder than V3, but the pump factor is HUGE. Either way, it seemed soft.)
Added: 2010-09-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.13a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
cool climb
513 at 13
Added: 2008-02-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.13a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Waiting for Guntess
The 13a starts all the way down and right in the cave. After traversing out, avoid the arete use the face holds. Fun to work.... low boulder problem crux to a pumpy 12a finish. Highly recommended!!!
Added: 2007-12-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.13a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
inspired by a friend
wow, starts with a hard boulder sequence to a fingery 12.a direct route thats super fun
Added: 2007-11-09
