Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Ancient Sea Friends -
5.11b
V2
Average Rating : 4.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b V2 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
11ish feel
Lower slab feels no harder than 5.9 moves. This applys to any move below the main dihedral roof, for at this point, the route turns into a different beast.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.
Added: 2013-02-17