Ascent Notes for: Mya's Climb - 5.9 Average Rating : 3.31/5

with Andrew j.

Enjoyed the exposure. I found the crux harder on Mya's than on Ian's.

n/a

I didn't feel like the climb was a 5.9 at all. It had two spots where it got a tad tricky but with a little bit of footwork it was easy to figure out. It was my first 5.9 ascent and after trying a few other 9s in the quarry this just didn't seem the same. The rock was also warm when the others were soooo cold.

BEWARE: There is a massive boulder midway up that you can pull off on the right... all rocks seem to fall into a slide path right down to where you're belayer needs to stand and this thing could cause some serious, serious damage......

Is this is the second climb now?. Should wear a helmet on the ground and climbing because of loose rock.

Larry left his helmet down on the ground and we were going to climb the new stuff off the ledge. I didn't want Larry to get smacked on the head by debris/rock.

Take a left below the crux on Myas and follow the crack to the cable.

~

I still think the crux is thoughtful. We had an accident on this climb last night. Lots of blood on the rock. Not sure if the climber skipped a bolt or not, but, the climber fell a long way, flipped upside down and bashed her helmetless head on the rocks below. She walked out in the morning, apparently she survived the night. I do not think I would climb this at night if this was your lead limit. I think the crux moves are a puzzle and you really have to figure them out by daylight.

It's now been rated a 5.9. The crux is thoughtful, but, pretty straight forward once you figure it out. I did not have long runners, just draws and I did not have any rope drag. There are some loose rocks and it appears that there is a MAJOR boulder that looks like it could break off. I will talk to Sean about trundling the thing as it is HUGE. Fun and varied, worth doing.