Ascent Notes for: Bombs Over Tokyo - 5.10c Average Rating : 4.50/5

Just loved the transition from roof to hand to thin hand to finger to tips to finger. I used a nut that was stucked for pro, but then I backed it up with my own gear (wasting precious juice in the process). Toes gave out at the crux and had to work it out til the good face holds. Route after the crux eases quite a bit.

An excellent finger splitter-crack - none of this 'jamming pinscars' nonsense. I found the cruz about 2/3rds the way up the finger crack. The crack gets very narrow, but do to the right side sticking out a bit more than the left, is not hard to lay-back to the right through. The crux finishes with a narrow-hand jam. I could see it - I though 'I got this'. Then I was careless with a foot placement on the last crux move. As I reached for the crux-exit jam, my foot popped off, and down I went. Darn. Immediately climbed back up, laybacked the crux with more care on the feet and finished the route with no further falls. Partner followed the route, then I followed it again - no falls. I know next time - with a little more care - the redpoint will be mine.